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Tomato

Tomato

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Description: A member of the Solanaceae family, tomatoes are a bushy or vining plant that produces fruit that is eaten. Although the color can range from yellow to purple, the most popular tomato varieties are bright red. They also come in a variety of shapes and sizes with grape size varieties being more popular as container plants and larger sizes for outdoor gar- dens. Tomatoes need to be regrown and replanted every year. They do not survive the winter. Determinate vs. Indeterminate: It is important to understand that some varieties of tomatoes are classed as determinate, which means that it will be bushy, reach a certain height and only produce a single crop of fruit. These are often the earlier tomatoes that are good to grow in shorter growing seasons. They don’t need to be pruned and they don’t need as much trellising. Indeterminate varieties of tomatoes grow tall and vining, producing fruit as long as the season allows. These types of tomatoes require sturdy trellising and there are strategic ways to prune them to encourage the plants energy to going into larger fruit if desired. Indeterminate varieties can take longer to mature but they are excellent in greenhouses where the growing sea- son can be extended in Northern climates. There are also semi determinates that have the qualities of both types of tomatoes. The seed packages and catalogs will indicate whether the tomatoes are determinate or indeterminate and they should give information on the number of days to maturity.
Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Require full sun for optimal fruit production. Find a spot that receives 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day. All tomato varieties are very frost tender and should be started indoors in areas with frost. Start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
As heavy feeders, Tomatoes need a growing medium rich in organic matter. If you don’t make your own compost, use store-bought compost that includes granite dust and topsoil. You’ll need about 5 to 8 pounds per square foot (25 to 40 kilograms per square meter). Turn compost into the top 3 inches (6 to 8 cm) Note – tomatoes are one plant that does not require annual rotation. They are happy growing in the same place every year. Monitor the soil pH. Tomatoes thrive in mildly acidic soil. Highly acidic soil can leach calcium from the plant and lead to blossom end rot. Keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil tests above 6.8, water your tomatoes with a mixture of equal parts cold coffee and water. You could also add a mulch pf pine needles. If your soil tests below 6.0, use either dolomite lime or calcium sources like crushed eggshells or calcite.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Sow seeds in flats or containers, ¼ inch deep and ½ inch apart. Use a simple seed starting medium. Seeds germinate in four to seven days in moist, warm soil ranging from 70-85 degrees F (21-19 degrees C) Once they have their first true leaves, thin them or transplant them so that they have at least 1 inch of space all around. About three weeks later, transplant the seedlings into larger containers, burying them as deep as the seedling leaves. Use a more fertile medium when potting up seedlings with worm castings and compost. NOTE – planting deep is important as it will cause them to produce more roots and become stronger. After the last frost date, the seedlings can be hardened off and planted out in the garden, They can be planted with several inches of the stem, up to the first true leaves, in the soil once again to cause more roots to develop and make the plant stronger. Plant tomatoes between 18 inches to three feet apart, depending on what size is indicated on the seed package. When planting the seedlings out in the garden, dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball, fill the hole with compost or fertile soil. At this point it is helpful to add something with calcium such as eggshells or crushed oyster shells. It is a good time to put stakes or trellises in when the plants are small and there is less chance of damaging the plant in the process. Tomatoes of the determinate variety do well in containers on decks and balconies. Hanging baskets can be adapted to upper-story apartments by hanging them from the window sill for small varieties like cherry tomatoes. Cage or stake indeterminate tomatoes to add support and keep the fruit off the ground. Tomato cages can be homemade and should be at least 48 inches (1.2 m) tall. Cages need to be sturdy to survive wind and the weight of all the fruit. Remove leaves and secondary stems as the plant grows to focus more energy on fruit production. Tomato stakes for indeterminate tomatoes should be at least 0.5 x 2 inches (1.3 x 5 cm) wide and 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 meters) long. Pound stakes about 12 to 24 inches (30 cm to 60 cm) deep, at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the plant. Secure the plant to the stake using loosely knotted, double-looped strips of cloth or garden twine that won’t strangle the plant. Stakes can be made of bamboo, scrap wood, electrical conduit, or iron bar.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Tomatoes and asparagus are mutually beneficial in adjacent rows as the asparagus repels nematodes and the tomatoes repel asparagus beetles. Marigolds help repel nematodes that can attack the roots of tomatoes. Carrots and tomatoes are mutually beneficial together and a good use of space. Flowers that attract pollinators but are not heavy feeders are helpful with tomatoes. Calendula, zinnias and nasturtiums are helpful and are attractive around tomatoes.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Tomatoes are susceptible to fungus so choose a spot that is not low lying or a place where water collects. In areas where there is a lot of rain it is helpful to plant tomatoes in a sunny spot but under the eaves of a house or outbuilding where they will not get rain on their leaves. Tomatoes benefit from soaker hoses. Watering in the morning is helpful. Water based on weather. Do not allow soil to become too dry but do not let it get swampy. Watering need will increase when weather is hotter.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Plants benefit from an organic mulch when they are about 1 foot tall and when the soil has become warm. This helps hold in moisture and reduces competitive weeds.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
After the fruit has set, water the plants about every two weeks with manure tea or fish fertilizer solution. (Nitrogen)
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Good Air circulation around tomatoes helps prevent mold and mildew so use a fan if growing in a greenhouse, or allow a cross breeze by opening vents during the day. For cutworms, when planting out seedlings, surround each stem with a collar that extends above and below the soil level by 1.5 inches. Blossom end rot is caused by drought or soil calcium deficiency. Adding eggshells to the soil when planting the seedlings helps to prevent this. Calcium deficiency treatment for blossom-end rot: Bring about one gallon (about 4 L) of water and a tablespoon (15 mL) of lemon juice to a boil. Add 6 tablespoons of bone meal to the water. Stir well. Don’t worry about completely dissolving the solution. Cook covered for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool. Feed 1 quart (about 1 L) of solution to each plant at the leaves and roots. Repeat the treatment a second time in 3 to 5 days. Tomato horn worms can be picked off by hand. Keeping the plants well staked so the fruit doesn’t end up sitting on the earth helps to keep slugs and other worms that eat the fruit away. Never plant tomatoes within 40-50 feet of a walnut tree because the walnut tree exudes juglone which causes walnut wilt and kills the tomato plants.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Depending on the variety Tomatoes can be an ongoing harvest all summer with the majority coming to fruition in the fall. When they are somewhat soft, fragrant and full colored, they are ripe.
How to Harvest:
Tomatoes can be picked when ripe as you would any fruit but if there is a risk of frost, tomatoes can be picked green. Keep them on the vine and hang the vine window. The tomatoes will ripen in the house. Tomatoes taste best when ripened outdoors in the sun.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Store ripe fruit at 40 degrees F (5 degrees C)
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Tomatoes are famous for canning and sauces. They also keep well in the freezer.
Seed Saving:
Tomato seeds can stay viable for up to 10 years when fermented, dried, and stored in a cool, dry place. You can store them in your refrigerator or freezer in an airtight container for extra protection. Fermenting the tomato seeds isn’t the only way to preserve them. You can omit the fermentation steps and simply clean and dry the seeds. If you dry your tomato seeds without fermenting them, they will only last 1 to 2 years. This is a good seed-saving option for those who plan to use their seeds quickly. Cut each tomato in half and squeeze the seeds, juice, and pulp of your tomatoes into a container. Make sure the seeds are completely covered with pulp and juice so they can properly ferment. Avoid adding water to the mixture if possible, as dilution can slow the A jelly-like sac surrounding each tomato seed prevents germination until the seeds are exposed to soil, which is great, except that the sac can harbor disease. Experienced seed-savers use fermentation to rid the seeds of their sacs before drying and storing them for future use. Once the seeds, pulp, and juices are all squeezed out into a bowl, label the bowl “tomato seed ferment” with the date and set it aside to let the fermentation begin. You can cover the container with a lid or cheesecloth to keep fruit flies away and to help contain the ferment’s unpleasant smell. Leave your seeds to ferment for 1 or 2 days and check on the process once or twice daily. Fermentation times longer than three days can negatively impact the seed’s viability. After fermentation, the mixture of seeds, pulp, and juice should have a thin layer of mold over it. This may look and smell gross, but it’s a sign that the fermentation process is working. If there is no layer of mold after 2 days of fermentation, don’t worry. It may not have had time to develop yet, but that doesn’t mean the ferment didn’t work. Check to see if the seeds have all settled at the bottom of your container with layers of watery juice and then pulp on top. If these layers are present, your ferment is complete. Pour out excess liquid from your tomato slurry, including all pulp, juice, and mold that may have formed in your container. You’ll strain the mixture again in the next step, so there’s no need to completely separate the seeds yet. Just pour off what you can without sacrificing seeds to make the straining process easier. Dispose of unneeded pulp, juices, and mold in your compost bin. Now pour the seed mixture through a cheesecloth or a fine-mesh sieve into a separate large bowl or bucket to completely separate all seeds from the liquid. You can spray any stubborn pulp with your wa- ter faucet. Rinse the seeds thoroughly under running water to get rid of all of the pulp and juices possible. Again, you can dispose of the unneeded pulp in your compost bin. Drying tomato seeds completely after fermentation will allow them to stay viable for up to 10 years. To do this, you can flip the strainer over and empty the clean seeds onto paper plates. Spread the seeds out so they have room to dry. Set them aside until they are completely dry (about a week) in a relatively cool, well-ventilated area. To stop the seeds from clumping to- gether, shake the plate daily and rub away any clumps that do form. If you’re drying multiple tomato seed varieties, make sure you label them and avoid mixing seeds to prevent cross- contamination. That way, you’ll know exactly what you’re planting when it’s time to garden. When your tomato seeds feel dry and papery you’ll know they are completely dehydrated. Then, place seeds into an appropriately labeled sealable envelope for future plantings. If you are saving seeds from multiple different tomato varieties, place each variety into a different envelope and label it to avoid any mix-ups.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

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