There are 3 main types of strawberries: June-bearing strawberries, also known as Chandler, Earliglow, Jewel, and Cabot, are harvested annually in the early summer. Day-neutral strawberries, or Seascape, Evie, and Albion, are ready to harvest throughout the summer and autumn months. Everbearing strawberries, otherwise known as Tribute and Tristar, can be harvested 2-3 times during the spring, summer, and autumn months. There are also woodland strawberries, which are a type of day- neutral berry. This type of strawberry typically grows on bushes, and produces a pretty small fruit crop overall. June- bearing strawberries won’t be ready to harvest until the second growing season. Ultimately, pick a strawberry type that matches your gardening style. If you’d like to harvest fruit for several weeks and months, everbearing and day-neutral are the best options for you. If you’d rather harvest all your fruit in a really short amount of time, June-bearing might be the best choice. If you plan on growing your strawberries in containers, day-neutral or everbearing are the best options. If a strawberry stops growing to form a hard spot at the tip, it’s because it’s packed with water and juices. Basically, it’s swelling, and it can’t grow anymore. (Picture a balloon. The main part puffs up, but toward the end above the knot, it’s stiff. It’s the same concept.) You can’t always rely on color to choose your strawberries. Although strawberries will continue to deepen in color once they are picked, they do not continue to sweeten. Hydroponic : Growing hydroponically means growing in a nutrient solution rather than in soil. Growing strawberries hydroponically ensures that weather is not a factor, and allows you to harvest them all year long. You need only a large bucket or tub for the reservoir, growing containers, wicks, nutrient solution, and strawberry root stock for delicious strawberries all year long. Though there are several ways to grow plants hydroponically, using the wicking system is the easiest method and requires the least amount of materials. It is also well-suited for small plants, such as strawberries. You’ll want to select a temperate, well-lit location for your hydroponic system. Hydroponic strawberries need a temperature range of 57° F to 70° F (13.8° C to 21.1° C). If you don’t have an area with lots of natural light, you’ll need to install artificial growing lights. It is recommended that beginners purchase a nutrient solution rather than making their own. This will ensure the ratios of the nutrients are fit for the specific plant you intend to grow. Strawberries require nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, and magnesium to grow properly. You can find nutrient solutions at hydroponic and garden shops. Pick a large tub or bucket to act as your reservoir. Ensure it is deep enough to hold a lot of the nutrient solution, otherwise you will spend lots of time refilling it. You should also make sure your growing containers will fit on top of the reservoir. Mix your hydroponic nutrients with water according to the package directions. Be sure to use the amount of water directed; too much or too little and your strawberries will not grow correctly. You can use one large trough in which all your plants will sit, or individual pots for each plant. The growing container should rest sturdily on top of the reservoir; be sure to hang or anchor it if it does not. Prepare your wicks. This is the most important part of the system, as the wicks deliver the nutrients to the plant. Choose something that is absorbent yet resistant to rotting. You may want to experiment and see which type of wick works best for your set-up. Fibrous rope, rayon rope, nylon rope, cotton rope, tiki torch wicks, polyurethane yarn, wool felt strips, or polyurethane felt strips are all commonly used for wicks. Be sure to clean and rinse all wicks before using to remove any chemicals that could damage your plants. Place your wicks between the reservoir and the growing container. The wicks need to deliver water from the reservoir to growing containers. If you use separate pots, you will also need to use a wick for each one. If you use a trough, add three or more wicks to ensure enough liquid will be able to reach your strawberry plants. Place each wick with one end in the reservoir and one end in the growing container. Choose a growing medium. This medium will replace the soil that is typically used for growing plants. You’ll want to choose a growing medium like perlite or vermiculite for strawberries. Avoid using mediums that are too absorbent, like coconut coir or peat moss, as they may soak up too much of your nutrient solution and suffocate the plant. Saturate your growing medium before filling the container. It is important to soak your growing medium in pH- balanced water prior to adding it to the growing container. Soak your medium for at least 30 minutes before filling the container to ensure the medium doesn’t act like a sponge and suck all the nutrients from the root of your plant. Fill the container only full, as you need to leave⅔ room for your rootstock. Rootstock will produce fruit within a month or two, depending on the variety. Ever- bearing or day-neutral varieties are recommended for indoor growers. Carefully remove a strawberry plant from its container. Clean the soil from the roots by gently shaking. You can also lightly tap the dirt clinging to the roots with your fingers. Remove any dry, brittle, or dead leaves at this point as well. Carefully rinse the roots under cool, running water. Be extremely careful when you are rinsing the soil from the roots; if you break too many of the root hairs, your plant won’t produce as much fruit. Immerse the entire root system in water. Fill a bucket with cold water and soak the root system of your strawberry plant for at least 10 minutes. This will ensure all dirt has been removed as well as prevent the strawberries’ runner roots from dehydrating when they are transplanted. Carefully hold the crown of the plant and arrange the roots so that they are splayed over the growing medium. Add enough of your growing medium to fully cover the roots of your strawberry plant. Be sure you don’t cover the crown of the strawberry plant; it must have light and air. Check the reservoir level daily. You’ll want to keep a close eye on the reservoir level to ensure your strawberries are getting enough of the nutrient solution. Keeping the reservoir full will ensure the solution has a shorter path to travel through the wick to reach the strawberries. If your level is low, be sure to pre-mix the nutrient solution according to the directions before adding it to the reservoir. Once per week you should flush your growing medium with water. This will remove excess nutrients, such as mineral salts, from the medium that your plant has not absorbed. Hand-pollinate your strawberries. Because there are no bees and birds indoors, you must hand-pollinate your strawberries once the petals are fully opened. Use a small, soft makeup brush or paintbrush to brush pollen from the stamen (male part, brownish in color) to the pistil (female part, yellow-greenish). Be sure to pollinate the entire pistil, or your strawberry plant may not produce fruit. Harvest your strawberries. Strawberries, unlike some other fruits, will not continue to ripen after they are picked. Don’t harvest your strawberries until they are completely ripe. When ripe, they will be red and somewhat firm to the touch. Once the berries have grown to a desirable size and turned red, carefully pluck them off the vine. Rinse them thoroughly before eating, and enjoy! You don’t need to use a bubbler to put oxygen in the water but doing so will have a big effect on rate of growth. Roots need oxygen as much as they do water. When using wicks, the air stone is useful. The air in the reservoir is to prevent anaerobic bacteria from taking hold. In practice, if you are replacing the solution and rinsing the reservoir regularly, it can be omitted. If you are like most people and remember to do that maybe monthly, the air stone is a good investment. (Purchasing a nutrient solution at a hydroponics shop is the best way to ensure you will have all the right nutrients for your plant. According to Garden Culture Magazine, for a fruiting nutrient you will need: 8.00 gr Calcium Nitrate – Ca(NO3)2 2.80 gr Potassium Nitrate – KNO3 1.70 gr Sulfate of Potash – K2SO4 1.39 gr Monopotassium Phophate – KH2PO4 2.40 gr Magnesium Sulfate – MgSO4 * 7H2O 0.40 gr 7% Fe Chelated Trace Elements.)