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Sassafras Tree

Sassafras Tree

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

A native deciduous tree with all parts of the plant fragrant. It blooms in early spring, with clusters of yellow flowers about 1–2″ long and up to ½” in diameter. Leaves are 3″–7″ long, bright to medium green in summer changing to enchanting colors of yellow, deep orange, scarlet and purple in the fall. The species are unusual in having three distinct leaf patterns on the same plant: unlobed oval, bilobed (mitten-shaped), and trilobed (three- pronged). Sassafras leaves are polymorphic, meaning that a single tree can have leaves in different shapes. The three lobed leaves are the most common leaf shape however, some sassafras trees have five or seven lobed leaves. The 1/2″ fruit is a drupe that’s blue-black when ripe with each containing a single seed. In winter landscapes, sas- safras trees are identified by their attractive reddish-gray bark that is smooth in immature trees and gradually develops interlacing furrows and ridges as it matures. The sassafras grows to a height of 30–60′ and a spread of 25–40′ at maturity. This tree grows at a medium to fast rate, with height increases of anywhere from 13″ to more than 24″ per year. Though it grows in a rounded shape, it can be grown as a single-trunk tree or a dense, bushy thicket. Throughout its natural range, the roots and bark were once used as a regular spring tonic. Family classification is from the Lauraceae family (the laurels). Sassafras albidum and Sassafras hesperia are dioecious with male and female flowers on separate trees, while Sassafras tzumu and Sassafras randaiense have male and female flowers occurring on the same trees. Sassafras Hesperia is extinct (known only from fossils).
Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Sassafras is commonly found in open woods, along fences, or in fields. It grows well in moist, well-drained, or sandy loam soils and tol-erates a variety of soil types, attaining a maximum in southern and wetter areas of distri- bution. Be sure to remove any shoots that develop for a single-trunk tree. Growing zones are 4 to 9. The tree is also vulnerable to ice storm damage. Sassafras has a disproportionally slender trunk that can be as thin as six to eight inches in diame- ter when growing as an understory tree, so it may be susceptible to wind break- age.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Full sun and partial shade are best for this tree, meaning it prefers a minimum of four hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. It grows well in moist, well- drained, or sandy loam soils and tolerates a variety of soil types, attaining a maximum in southern and wetter areas of distribution It has some tolerance to drought and salt. Pre- ferred soil pH is 6.0 to 7.0. Since Sassafras prefers neutral to slightly acidic soil, if the leaves turn chlorotic, the soil might be too alkaline.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
The only regular care it requires is when you grow it as a specimen tree. In that case you need to keep removing the root suckers by cutting them at ground level, or else it will have a shrubby appearance or grow into a thicket. Sassafras stands can be pruned to give the thickets a neater appearance but it’s not essential for tree health.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
You will often find sassafras trees growing near flowering dogwoods, eastern red cedars, beech, and sugar maple trees. The Black Walnut tree would most likely challenge a resisting Sassafras tree.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Young trees need to be watered until they are established. During the first growing season, if it doesn’t rain, water the tree once or twice a week. Make sure to water it deeply so that the water reaches all the way down to the tree’s deep tap root.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
It is a tree that colonizes an area, sending up small sassafras in the surroundings. This is not a big deal if you mow or weed regularly, but if you want a low-maintenance tree, this may not be the one for you.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Do not fertilize a newly planted tree during the first year, which can stunt its growth. In averagely fertile soil, established trees usually do not need fertilizer, but if your soil lacks nutrients, feed it at the beginning of the growing season.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
As a tree that is native to North America, sassafras is generally not affected by many pests and diseases. Two invasive pests from Asia, however, can be a problem: Japanese beetles and the redbay ambrosia beetle, which is not directly damaging the tree, but transmits laurel wilt disease, a deadly fungus, into the sapwood of the tree. When you notice that your sas- safras tree is wilting and dying from the fungus, it is unfortunately already too late. The other serious pest is the sassafras borer. The larvae bore holes in the bark of the terminal (“head” of a tree branch) and the tips of small branches, resulting in wilting of the foliage. Young trees are especially susceptible and might die if the infestation is major. Woodpeckers might come to your rescue by eating small numbers of the larvae and pupae. For a non-chemical control measure, remove infested terminals and branches, in which the female beetles have laid their eggs. Safely dispose of the branches in the trash or destroy them to break the two- year life cycle of the borer.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Sassafras trees rarely live longer than 30 years. For more potent roots, harvest in mid to late February or early March. This way the sap is still concentrated in the roots of the sassafras tree, providing you with a more potent root.
How to Harvest:
Keep in mind that should do this on a day when it is warm enough that the ground is not frozen. If the ground is frozen you will not manage much of a harvest, as the ground will be rock-solid hard and fight your shovel. Have a cutting tool and gloves for col- lecting the sassafras roots (even small ones) from the dirt, plus a bucket of water. Shoving the tree over will more than likely cause some breakage at the roots. Bear in mind to only harvest what you need and to leave a good number of roots in tact so the tree will continue to grow. The sassafras roots maybe different colors; some may be red, some may be white. The water can be very handy in pre-rinsing the roots before getting home. You will know you have the right tree for sure once you have broken a root, and sniff. It will smell much like black licorice; remember it was once used to flavor candies.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
How much you want to harvest really de- pends on your needs and plans for the use of your sassafras. Now that you have harvested your Sassafras, it is time to clean and sanitize your sink. / Shake the Sassafras roots over a compost bin – preferably – or over a trash can to shake out as much loose dirt as you can. / Then, put the roots in the sink and fill the sink with lukewarm water just enough to cover the roots; no need to waste water. / Scrub brush the roots to remove as much dirt as possible. / Place your clean Sassafras roots into a large bowl or container. / If you choose to remove the bark, you can, although there is as much flavor in the bark as well as the roots. / Cut 1 inch lengths for making tea with pruning shears. You need to ensure that it is thoroughly dried in order to store for long term use. A dehydra- tor works great for drying sassafras. If you do not have a dehydrator, there is no need to purchase one. You can set your oven to 120°F, place a cookie sheet with your roots in the oven, and dry them this way. Watch them closely to be sure you don’t burn them, but also be sure the root is completely dried. Sassafras is susceptible to mold, and drying thoroughly is one way to prevent it. Another alternative drying method is screen drying. This will come in handy if you are living off the grid and do not want to use gas or electricity. Simple screens like the ones in your window are all that you need. You can prop these up on blocks, though only at the edges, as it is important for the air to flow all around the screens. Place these in a cool dark place; a barn or cellar will work. Watch your sassafras roots closely. It could be days or weeks until they are completely dry. In general, depending on the type of roots, the size of roots, and their moisture content, it takes about 3 to 15 days for them to thoroughly dry with the screen method. Dried roots will store for a year. They are best kept in an airtight container. An oxy- gen absorbent packet will prolong the life of dry goods as well. It is always best to store these in a cool dry place. Light can contribute to the spoilage of any stored foods if you are not careful. Sassafras roots are available online if you can’t harvest so you can enjoy making your tea (known as spring tonic).
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Because of their large taproot, sassafras is difficult to transplant. Con- tainer-grown nursery trees have the best chances of survival. Birds usually distribute the seeds. Sassafras seeds typically germinate the following spring after being planted in soil or landing on the ground.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

It is the main ingredient in traditional root beer and a gumbo from Louisana. The leaves and flowers have also been used in salads and to flavor fats or cure meats. The wood of sassafras trees has been used as a material for building ships and furniture in China, Europe, and the United States, and sassafras played an important role in the history of the European colonization of the American continent in the 16th and 17th centuries. Sas- safras twigs have been used as toothbrushes and fire starters. The leaves, bark, twigs, stems, and fruits are eaten by birds and mammals in small quantities. For most animals, sassafras is not consumed in large enough quantities to be important, al- though it is an important deer food in some areas. Sassafras leaves and twigs are consumed by white-tailed deer and porcupines. Other sassafras leaf browsers include groundhogs, marsh rabbits, and American black bears. American beavers will cut sassafras stems. Sassafras fruits are eaten by ‘many species’ of birds and small mammals also. Notice: Sassafras is no longer used in commercially produced root beer since sassafras oil was banned for use in commercially mass-produced foods and drugs by the FDA in 1960 due to health concerns about the carcinogenicity of safrole, a major constituent of sassafras oil, in animal studies. Steam distillation of dried root bark produces an essential oil which has a high safrole con- tent, as well as significant amounts of varying other chemicals such as camphor eugenol (including 5- methoxyeugenol), asarone, and various sesquiterpenes. (Many other trees contain similarly high percentages and their extracted oils are sometimes referred to as sas- safras oil, which once was extensively used as a fragrance in perfumes and soaps, food and for aromatherapy.) Safrole is a precursor for the clandestine manufacture of the drugs MDA and MDMA, and as such, sales and import of sassafras oil (as a safrole-containing mix- ture of above-threshold concentration) are heavily restricted in the US). In 1997, a NIH report stated Filé powder, also known as gumbo filé, is an herbal powder made from the dried and ground leaves of the sassafras tree (Sassafras albidum) that herbal prod- ucts derived from sassafras don’t contain any detectable amounts of safrole. Extra entry- ‘Filé powder’ is an herbal powder made from the dried and ground springtime leaves of the sassafras tree (Sassafras albidum). The leaves do not contain enough safrole to even be detected by normal testing, and filé powder has been declared safe for human consumption. A true “filé gumbo” should have both filé powder and okra. It should be added to the gumbo off the heat just before serving, or serve it at the table for guests to sprinkle over their gumbo. You can find it in most supermarkets and many specialty food stores or online food retailers.

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