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Sage

Sage

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

The plant is an herb in the genus Salvia which encompasses all the sages. Some look like a low shrub with pale, velvet-soft greyish green leaves and is a member of the Mint family. It is a hardy perennial that tastes aromatic and slightly bitter. (Sage is one of the few herbs that develops a stronger flavor when dried.) Sage can grows to a height of 24-36 inches (60-90 cm) and will be about 24 inches wide displaying pretty purple, pink, blue or white flowers on spikes in the summer that produce nutlet fruits. Other Common Names are Amaro, Clarry, Clary, Clary Sage, Clear Eye, Cleareye, Cleere Eye, Common Clary, Europe Sage, Eyebright, Garden Clary, Orvale, See Bright, Tuylu Ada- cayi. Both the leaves and flowers are used in flavoring and teas as well as aromatherapy applications. The plant also yields an essential oil called clary oil or muscatel sage, which is used for topical afflictions and in aromatherapy applications. Growing clary sage for home use provides all these benefits and is safe for human consumption.
Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
It can survive in temperatures as low as zero degrees Fahrenheit so hardiness zones are 5 to 9. If you live in planting zones 5 to 8, your sage will be a perennial, growing back year after year each spring. If you’re in zones 9 and further south, your sage will likely be an annual, or one-year plant. You can begin growing sage using several methods. If you’ve never had sage before, you can either plant fresh sage seeds (which can be temperamental) or purchase a small plant from the garden center and transplant it into your garden or a clay pot. However, if you already have an established sage plant, you can use cuttings or layering techniques to grow a new plant.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
It is easy to grow, only having three major requirements – plenty of sunshine, good drainage and good air circulation. Sage grows well in rich clay loam that drains well and is rich in nitrogen. It prefers soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. If you’re using clay soil, try mixing in some sand and organic matter. This lightens the soil and helps with drainage. Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure: If you are transferring a sage plant into the ground, then make sure to plant it at the same level as it was in the pot. If you decide to plant seeds, they should be planted in late spring (in a bed or in a container) about 1/8 inch deep and 24 to 30 inches apart. They will take 10 to 21 days to germinate. If you do plant it in a large outdoor garden, it will spread and become large and bushy.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Sage grows best when it is planted with other perennial herbs, such as thyme, oregano, marjoram, and parsley. Sage attracts bees and repels cabbage butterflies. It also grows well with carrots, strawberries, rosemary,nasturtium, and tomatoes. Do not grow Sage with : fennel, cucumber, rue, wormwood, and allium.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Prune the older, woodier stems in early spring, after the danger of freezing is past but before new growth has really begun but only prune each stem by about a third. Cut back the sage stems at the end of each season. While sage plants are evergreen and grow for longer than other plants, it’s still best to adhere to a seasonal harvesting schedule. At the end of harvesting season (typically late September or early October), give your sage one more pruning, trimming away the older growths on the top thirds of the stems and removing no more than half of the shrub altogether. Stop harvesting the shrub during mid-fall so that it has a chance to prepare for the winter months. Begin harvesting from the plant again in the spring, once leaf production has started again.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Go easy with watering. When the sage plants are small, you should mist them with water to keep the soil moist. But when they reach maturity, you should only water sage when the soil surrounding the plant is dry to the touch. In fact, in some climates you won’t need to water your sage at all – they’ll get all the moisture they need from rainfall. Sage is a tough little plant and is very drought-tolerant.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
For Clary Sage, you do not want weed competition because studies show essential oil content is higher by removal of weeds.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Sage plants don’t really need much fertilizer. Over- fertilizing makes them grow faster but they have a weaker flavor, defeating the purpose of growing it. Once or twice per year is enough for mature plants. Plant it with other compatible herbs and vegetables.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Mildew, root rot, and wilt are some diseases that are more common in sage. Avoid by watching the plants carefully during hot, humid weather and by thinning the plants regularly to increase air circulation. You can also try mulching the earth around the plant with pebbles, as this helps any moisture to evaporate more quickly. If mildew does develop on you plant, try spritzing it with a horticultural oil or sulfur spray. Sage is usually not a target for pests, but sometimes it will be affected by spider mites, thrips, and Spittlebugs. If you notice any pests, try using an insecticidal soap to keep them under control.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Harvest the sage lightly during the first year, picking off leaves as you need them. In subsequent years, you can harvest the sage year round by cutting entire stems from the plant. Sage is considered to be at its best just before the flowers bloom, usually in mid-summer. Do your last full harvest approximately two months before the first major frost of the year. This gives any newly formed foliage enough time to mature before winter sets in. Another way to show your sage plant some extra care (and guarantee it a long life) is to limit what you harvest for the first year of the plant’s life. Take as little as you can during this time, and give your sage plant the time it needs to grow fully and give you a more plentiful harvest in the coming years.
How to Harvest:
Harvest in the morning, after the dew dries. To get the best harvest you can, wait until the initial moisture on the sage plant is gone – but do it before the midday sun! This is when the oils on the plant’s leaves are most potent, and you’ll get the best flavor out of your harvest. Sage is best harvested before the shrub starts to flower. To give your plant some extra attention, deadhead the flowers as they bloom; this clears the way for more healthy leaves. Similarly, while sage is typically an evergreen plant that can be harvested for the majority of the year, you’ll get the best flavor from fresh growths in the summer months. Pinch the sage leaves off with your fingers to harvest smaller amounts. Gathering sage in smaller amounts is an easy task: easily harvest individual leaves by pinching them off between your thumb and forefinger, right above the spot on the stem where two leaves meet. Handle your sage plant gently as you harvest to avoid bruising it. If just a few leaves won’t cut it and you need a larger helping of sage, then gather up big bunches by cutting the top 6 inches (15 cm) of stem off of young shoots. To do this, use either a clean pair of scissors or pruners. By pinching off a few leaves at the stem, you’re actually encouraging the sage plant to branch, which will give you a fuller shrub in the future. Since the flavor and scent of an herb begins to deteriorate immediately after it is harvested, you’ll find it easier to pick individual leaves of sage on an as-needed basis. However, when you need a bigger harvest, your sage can be preserved and stored in several ways, including hang- drying and freezing: Before you begin to dry out the sage, make sure that your leaves are clean by rinsing them under running water and removing any dead or damaged parts that you see in the process. Then, dry them with paper towels to remove excess moisture. This is the first of a couple commonly used sage-drying techniques for you to choose from. Tie up the stems of your sage in bunches using twine or a rubber band, placing the tie closer to the cut ends of the stems, and hang them with the leafy ends down until they are fully dried. Make sure the space you hang them in is well-ventilated and warm, but out of the sun. De- pending on their condition, a shed, garage, or attic could be the ideal spot to do this. Before you hang your sage bundles, place each one inside a small paper bag leafy-ends first, and cut out the bottom of the bag or cut holes in the sides to keep the sage ventilated. This keeps your sage from collecting dust or getting contaminated while it hangs. Avoid hanging it above a stove, as odors coming from it can damage the integrity of your sage. While effec- tive, this method of drying normally takes 2-3 weeks, up to a month, to complete. Dry your sage in the oven. This is a good method to use if you have individual leaves instead of bundles. Place the sage leaves on a cookie sheet, arranging them so that they don’t over- lap, and slide the tray into the oven. Set your oven at its lowest heat possible, and leave the door to the oven open slightly so that the interior temperature stays around 90–110 °F (32–43 °C). Do not leave the oven door open if you have a gas oven; open every 5 minutes to vent the heat instead. Check up on your sage frequently, and expect the drying process to take roughly 3-4 hours. Only do this if you can keep a close eye on the sage and the temperature within the oven, as too much heat will cause the sage leaves to lose their flavor. Once your sage is fully dried, it will easily crumble for storage. Place your dried herbs in an airtight and vapor-proof con- tainer, and store them somewhere cool, dark, and dry. Cupboards and pantries are ideal storage spots for this. Appropriate containers for storing dried sage include jars, ziplock bags, or tupperware con- tainers. Fully dried sage can be stored in this way for up to a year. While crushed sage can be easier to store, whole dried leaves can keep their flavor for even longer. If you need to save pantry space or don’t want to dry your sage, store it in the freezer in- stead. Chop up all of the sage leaves and place them in an ice cube tray filled with water, before putting the tray back in the freezer. When the sage-filled ice cubes have fully frozen, remove them from the trays and each one in plastic bags, which should also be stored in the freezer. From there, grab sage cubes for use in the kitchen as you need them.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
It is possible to harvest both young and mature sage leaves, but keep in mind that the younger leaves will have a better flavor and aroma when used in cooking. When harvested and dried, it can be used as a stuffing for poultry, rab- bit, pork, and baked fish, and can also be used in sausage or meat loaves. In addition to be- ing used as an aromatic herb in cooking, sage can also be used in potpourri and soap. Here are some things you can do with sage: make Parmesan and Sage Biscuits, make a Violet and Sage Cold Sore Cream, make Oatmeal and Sage Soap, make Sage and Ginger Tea.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Replace the plant every three to five years because it will become woody and straggly. You can either start again with a new plant or seed, or use the old plant for cuttings or layering: To layer the plant, bend a branch of the existing sage towards the soil. Use some wire to pin the branch to the ground, about 4 inches from the tip. After about four weeks, roots will begin to form. Then you can cut the branch and transplant the newly formed sage plant to another location. To use cuttings, cut the top 3 inches from the branch of an existing sage plant. Strip the lower leaves from the stem, or use a scissors to cut them off. Dip the ends in rooting hormone, then place in sterile sand. Wait 4 to 6 weeks for roots to form, then move to a pot and later the garden. It is best to take cuttings of plants in early spring, just after you notice some new growth. Growing your sage from seed, will likely take a couple years to fully mature.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Ideally, sage plants should grow in full sun, but they will also survive in light shade in hotter areas. If it’s exposed to too much shade, it will grow leggy and flop over. If indoors without much sunlight, you can use fluorescent lights. Standard fluorescent lamps should be 2 – 4 in. above the plants. However, high output fluorescent, compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights work better and should be placed 2–4 feet (0.6–1.2 m) about the plants.

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