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Rose Hips

Rose Hips

Rose hips are the fruit, or seed pods, of rose plants. They are usually red or orange but can be purple or black, and they typically ripen in the late summer or fall. Hips and petals are edible and come from the Rosacea family. These deciduous perennial shrubs vary 4 to 8 ft. tall and 4 to 6 ft. wide. For the best hips, plant a Rugosa variety of rose (native shrub rose species) which are said to have the best-tasting hips. These hips are also generally the largest and most abundant. Rugosa roses are known to spread, and are frequently grown as a decorative hedge. Though Rugosa produces the best hips, other varieties of roses do as well. A basic guideline is that hips won’t form on roses that produce blooms with tightly packed petals, like tea roses. Rugosas come in white, red and many shades of pink. Rose hips have a bit of the tartness of crab apples. You can enjoy the beautiful flowers all summer long before you have to harvest your hips later. They’re a perfect crop for the flower garden and surprise their recipients with good medicinal uses.
Introduction
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Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Home gardeners don’t start roses from seed, you buy cuttings or seedlings. They do not need humidity to thrive and the hardiness zones are 2 to 7. Plant your rose plant in fall before the frost or in spring after the fear of frost has passed.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Choose a location that will be a spot in full sun to partial shade but for the warmer climates, try to protect the plant from those hot afternoons. Rugosa roses will grow into a very dense and thorny shrub, so don’t plan on using it too close to any walkways or paths. Brushing up against the rose bush can be unpleasant and prickly. Use regular soil without added compost, and even add a little sand to assist in becoming well-draining. Preferred soil pH is 5.6 to 6.5. Their extraordinary tolerance for salt, wind, and neglect also makes these shrubs a superb choice for seaside gardens. Their perfume is exquisite and pleasing to many. Though they can grow into large shrubs, you can certainly grow roses in containers. You will need a large pot, 5 to 10 gallons in size for each rose bush. Water a potted rose a little more often than a garden-planted one, but don’t let it get water-logged. Your container should have very good drainage. Some varieties will send out suckers that run and spread. Removing the suckers early will keep the shrub from becoming a nuisance.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Dig a hole large enough for the roots of your rose seedling, and plant it to the same depth as it was in its original pot. You don’t need to add any compost or fertilizer, but give it a generous watering.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
anise hyssop, bellflower, catmint, baptisia, phlox, echinops, geranium, germander, Lady’s mantle, lavender, lilies, salvias, allium, Russian sage, sea holly, euphorbia, wormwood, yarrow, Four O’Clocks, heliotrope, lantana, larkspur, million bells, pansies (violas), Persian shield, angelonia, nicotiana, caryopteris, boxwood, daphne and spirea are reported complements to roses.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

To get the hips to form, you have to leave your dead rose blossoms on the bush. It may not look that attractive but it’s necessary to let the plant produce its fruit. You really need to keep this in mind when your roses are in full bloom. If you’re growing them for the hips, you cannot cut the flowers to bring inside. Just enjoy them on the plant. Prune out any dead branches in the shrub and try to remove any that are rubbing against each other.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Rugosa roses are extremely hardy, and are known to grow in the wild in the most inhospitable places. Water it regularly until it starts to produce new growth and get established. Once growing well, you should only need to water it during a drought. If you do water your roses, do so at the soil not over the leaves. The water can spread the fungus spores.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Good companions also act as living mulches to suppress weeds and lightly shading the soil, keeping rose roots nice and cool.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
There are several natural fertilizer products on the market designed particularly for roses. A feeding with these each season will keep your plants strong, though it not strictly necessary.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Most roses are purchased in a container or as a dormant root plant. Be sure to choose a disease-resistant variety as roses are very disease-prone. Once the flowers die back, the birds are going to be as interested in the hips as you are. The prickly plants are naturally protected from such pests, but you can still lose a lot of your harvest to determined birds. Perhaps cover your roses with netting, or mount a fake owl nearby. The leaves of your rose plants can be attacked by June beetles or Japanese beetles. You can handpick them off whenever you see them. To treat the roses, rinse the plant with the garden hose and then apply insecticidal soap or Neem Oil. Japanese beetles can cause damage and should be removed when spotted to prevent them from laying their eggs. Roses can also suffer from stem canker, a fungus that usually attacks the stems but can also effect the flowers. You will first notice brown or reddish patches on the stems of your roses, that eventually dry out and leave a shrunken lesion on the branch. If it goes all the way around the stem, the branch will die off above that point. A natural fungicide or insecticide for vegetables or fruits will work.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Your plants will likely produce some small hips even after the first season, but they won’t be a full crop of them until the second year. The best time to harvest your rose hips is after the first light frost has nipped the leaves, but before you experience a hard frost that freezes the hips. Light frost helps sweeten the flavor. The hips should still be firm and have good color.
How to Harvest:
Roses will bloom (and therefore produce hips) on the outside of the shrub, so you shouldn’t have to reach in between the prickly branches to snip off the hips. Even so, it’s a good idea to wear gloves at harvest time. Leave the shriveled or dried rose hips on the plants for the birds to enjoy; they won’t be as tasty and may be too mushy to pick. Waiting until after a frost is also good for the plant, since cutting the hips before frost could encourage the rose to send out new growth that will be killed back at the next frost. Fully ripe hips can often simply be plucked off the rose canes. Or you can clip them off with a knife or scissors. Orange hips are not quite ripe, but deep red ones are over-ripe. You have to judge the right color in between to get the highest levels of vitamin C. They should be just slightly soft, not mushy. Spread them out in the sun and let them dry until you notice their skins starting to wrinkle up slightly. You need to slice each hip in half, and scrape out the little seeds. Once the seeds are out, leave the hips to dry out completely. Another way to dry is to spread the hips out over baking trays rays and dry them in an oven or dehydrator set to 110 F until the hips are dry and brittle. When completely dry, store them in airtight jars.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
After they are dried, you can store them in the refrigerator for several months. If you freeze them, they will keep for a year or longer. They also contain a large amount of vitamin C (20 times more C in them than oranges). Rose hips make great jelly, sauce, syrup, soup, marmalade, ketchup, seasoning, and even fruit leather. To get a sense of the taste of rose hips, start out by brewing yourself a cup of rose hip tea. If you’re making jelly, you don’t need to remove the seeds. Don’t use aluminum pans or utensils that could discolor the hips; aluminum also destroys the vitamin C in rose hips. Stainless steel is okay. When making jelly, rose hips are often mixed with other fruits, such as apples or cranberries. To extract the juice to make jelly, remove the blossom remnants and stems from the rose hips. Wash the hips in cool water. Add the rose hips to a pan, cover with water, and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool, then strain through a cheesecloth into a container. One pound of rose hips equals about 2 cups of juice.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Remove the seeds from the ripe (they turn color) rose hip. Use a knife to slice through the rose hip, remove the seeds and rinse off the pulp surrounding the seed. This pulp prevents sprouting. Store the seeds in a cool moist environment. Some rosarians place the seeds on moist paper towels inside a sealed plastic bag. Others plant them in small containers or flats filled with moist potting mix. Place these in the refrigerator for at least 6 preferably 12 weeks. Remove them from storage and grow them like your other seedlings indoors. Transplants can be moved outside after the danger of frost has passed.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

For the healthful impact, use rose hips when they are fresh because drying will cause them to lose most of the vitamin C. The intensity of flavor will depend on the type, color, and soil conditions. The darker the petals, the more pronounced the flavor. All roses petals are edible, but before consuming, remove the bitter white portion of the petals. Don’t use rose hips from plants that have been treated with a pesticide that is not labeled for use on edibles. If you’re not sure, it’s best to avoid using any pesticides if you plan to consume the hips.

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