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Radish

Radish
Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Because radishes grow so quickly, you can “inter-crop” them between slow- growing vegetables to make row markers. You can also “succession plant” them by sowing a new row each week, to spread your harvest over a longer period.
Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Radishes are a cool weather crop best planted in spring and autumn. Growing radishes during the hot summer months may cause them to bolt. (bloom and go to seed) You can plant your first crop a full 2 weeks before the last frost in spring, as radishes endure frost well. A typical spring radish germinates in about 5 days and is ready for harvest in 3 to 4 weeks. Stop planting radishes when hot weather shows up. This basically means that if you’re having consecutive days of 60 °F (16 °C) or above you should hold off on your radish planting until it gets cooler.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Radishes prefer loose soil that is free of stones and includes lots of organic matter. Add compost to soil before planting.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Plant radish seeds 1/2 inch (12.5 mm) deep and 1 inch (25 mm) apart. Rows should be planted about 1 foot (30 cm) apart. If you’re planting a large radish you will want to plant the seeds about 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch deep. As they germinate, thin the successful seedlings to about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, allowing more space for bigger varieties. The greens of all radishes are edible, with larger greens being better cooked, so you can eat the young tender radishes and greens in salads as you thin them out.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Radishes work well as companion plants, because they keep a lot of the bugs off the regular plants and they grow more quickly. Plant them alongside carrots, parsnips, squash and cabbages.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Radishes are a root vegetable that matures incredibly quickly (with some varieties taking only 3 weeks from seed to maturity), and they are very hardy. Their peppery flavor adds a kick to soups and salads, and they take up very little space in the garden. The most familiar radish is red but they come in a variety of colors. RADISH VARIETIES Spring radishes are the types that people are most familiar (like the Cherry Belle radish, which is red on the outside and white on the inside). You want to make sure that you’re growing these in spring or fall. They tend to be the fastest growing radish, as well. Typically the summer radish is similar to the spring radish but tends to grow more slowly, taking around 6-8 weeks to mature. The winter radish is much larger and starchier than the spring and summer radishes and takes longer to grow. It’s best to sow it in late summer for a fall or winter harvest. Winter radishes include Daikon and Champions. Daikon can grow to 18 inches (45 cm) long and takes 60 days to mature, and includes some extra-spicy varieties.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Keep the radish beds moist, but not soaked. Watering radishes frequently and evenly will result in quick growth; if radishes grow too slowly, they will develop a hot, woody taste. If you don’t water them evenly (for example, not watering for a few days and then drowning them) the radishes can crack. If your radishes end up tasting too hot or too pungent, it likely means that the soil is too dry or the temperature of the soil is too hot (above 90 degrees Fahrenheit). To protect your roots and cool the soil, add 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch. Water your radishes 2 to 3 hours at a time and then wait until the soil has dried to at least a 4 inch depth. If the radish root is pithy and woody the temperature of the soil has likely been too high and the watering spotty. Make sure that the roots are covered with soil or warmth to keep them cool and that you are watering evenly. Also, make sure that you are harvesting your radishes as soon as they’re big enough, so that they don’t grow too big and crack.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Keeping the radishes clear of weeds can help prevent some pest problems.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Add compost to the radish bed as they grow to help retain moisture.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
There are different kinds of fungi that can kill your radish or make it taste really bad. Usually there are obvious signs of a fungus problem that you can watch out for and subsequently deal with. Crop rotation, removal of infected radishes, clearing up nearby plant debris and making sure your bed is well drained helps with most fungal problems. If your leaves are looking faded and you find that there are tunnels and grooves in the roots, you might have root maggots. These tiny critters are small, gray/white, legless worms. Flies lay their eggs in the soil beside the plant. To get rid of them, add lime or wood ashes to the base of your radish plants. Wait to plant your radishes until the weather is drier so that you avoid the maggot’s life cycle. If you have tiny holes appearing in the radish leaves, you might have flea beetles. These little critters are bronze or black beetles 1/16th of an inch long. If you find you have these, spread diatomaceous earth, a type of soft, sedimentary rock that crumbles easily into a fine, off-white powder. This can act as a natural bug killer. You should also cultivate the ground often, so that you disrupt the beetles’ life cycle. If your radish plants have whitish or yellowish spots, have deformed leaves, or if the plants are wilting, you might have Harlequin bugs. These bugs, which are black with yellow or red or orange markings, suck the fluids out of the radish’s plant tissue. Pick out and destroy all the bugs and the egg masses. To help keep them out of your garden, keep it clear of the places where bugs breed, like crop residue and weeds. If the leaves of your radish plant turn a dull yellow, if they curl and become brittle, your radish plant might have contracted Aster yellows, a mycoplasma disease spread by Leafhoppers. If this is the case, remove the infected plant or plants, and control the leaf-hopper population by keeping down the weeds and plant debris.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Radishes are typically ready to harvest when their roots are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Check your seed packet for your variety’s expected size at harvest and time to maturity. You can also push back the dirt and see if a bulb has grown. If so, pull a few radishes and taste them. That will let you know if they’re ready to be harvested. Unlike many root vegetables, radishes cannot be left in the ground, as doing so will cause them to become tough and pithy.
How to Harvest:
To harvest, lift the entire plant out of the ground with your hand.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Brush the soil off your radishes using your hand, and then store them in a cool, dark place for up to 2 weeks. Wash them with water before eating them.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Radishes are best eaten fresh. For a taste of radish in winter, radish seeds can be added to winter sprouting mixes.
Seed Saving:
Radish seed saving requires nothing more than leaving the pods on the plants until they are brown and mostly dried. Keep an eye on them if the weather is turning wet so they don’t mildew. If this is looking imminent, I suggest abandoning the radish seed saving in lieu of harvesting the pods and eating them before they go bad. Once the pods are browning, you can pull the entire plant up and upend it in a brown bag. Hang the bag with the plant seed dangling down into it and allow the seeds to mature naturally. Once they are completely mature, the pods pop open and the seeds drop into the bag. You can also allow seed pods to mature in a cool, dry area and then winnow or sift them to separate the seeds from the chaff. Seeds will store for up to five years in a cool, dry area. Keep in mind that if you are collecting radish seeds from hybrid varieties, the chances of obtaining exact replicas of the parent plant in the successive planting season is nil as radishes cross pollinate readily. Regardless, the resulting radish will still be a radish. If you want to be a purest, select only those seeds from dedicated heirloom plantings.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

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