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Persimmon

Persimmon

The American persimmon is a deciduous tree that at maturity can reach 30 to 80 feet (9.1 to 24.4 m) high and 20 to 35 feet (6.1 to 10.6 m) wide and is from the family Ebenaceae. Common cultivated varieties are the Japanese or Asian persimmon.

These three trees have a strong taproot that can go quite deep, so this needs to be taken into consideration. This is why persimmons won’t grow well in containers. These trees are rather slow-growing and it can take seven to 10 years for them to be fruit-bearing.
Introduction
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Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Usually if ordered online, bare root persimmon saplings are harvested in December or January and are shipped in the winter and early spring. Be careful when you transport the tree, as the roots will be bare. (It’s easiest to grow the tree from a sapling rather than a seed, since the seeds can be difficult to cultivate.) Plant the sapling in early spring or fall, depending on your climate persimmon trees prefer climates where the temperature doesn’t fall below 0°F (−18 °C) and must be planted in early spring. For American varieties, it’s safe to plant in fall as long as the winter temperatures don’t fall below −20°F (−29 °C). If you aren’t sure when to plant the tree, check with a local nursery about the best times for planting persimmons in your area. Hardiness zones are 4 to 9. They’re not as likely to fruit in desert climates but do best in areas where deciduous trees proliferate and like a moderate amount of humidity.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Be sure to select a spot that’s at least 12 feet (3.7 m) from other plants or structures. As with most fruit trees, full sun is best for growing persimmons. Some afternoon shade is all right. Be aware of shifting light patterns through the seasons, bearing in mind that persimmons ripen in late autumn. Make sure the area has well-draining soil, and avoid areas that have standing water during wet weather. American varieties of persimmons will withstand more shade and less ideal soil than Asian varieties. Persimmons like slightly acidic and loamy soils but are adaptable to a wide range of conditions. They do not do well in salty soils. As with any fruit tree, choose a site with good drainage to prevent root rot and fungus problems. Soil pH preference is 6.5 to 7.5.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Dig a hole 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and 2 inches (5.1 cm) deep and insert the roots. Position the sapling in the hole so the base of the tree sits just above soil level. Then, fill the hole with soil mixed with compost, making a small pyramid around the base of the tree. It’s important that the base of the tree sits above the surrounding soil since the tree will settle further into the soil when watered.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Good companions are borage, chives, comfrey, strawberries, marigold, calendula. Don’t overthink it, plant the plants you want around it. Paw paw, oak, black locust, ash, pine, blueberries, elderberry, Jerusalem artichoke, clover, millet, crabapple, stag horn sumac, and devils walking stick are all things that play well with persimmon. Walnut trees are particularly bad companions for persimmons though.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

During the first year, use a pair of sharp, handheld pruning shears to remove a few center branches. Leave well-spaced branches that are pointing outwards with 1 central branch pointing upward to establish the trunk of the tree. After the first year, avoid pruning the branches unless they are already broken.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
The roots of persimmon trees tend to grow slowly, so it’s important to keep the soil watered. Since the soil will drain quickly, plan to water the sapling every day for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Depending on your climate, the soil may dry out quickly, especially on hot days. If the soil doesn’t dry out after 1 day, consider watering every other day. After the first year, only water the tree during dry spells that last longer than a week and during a drought, water once weekly, deeply at the roots.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Scatter mulch around the base of the tree in a circle to cover the displaced soil. Make sure the mulch is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick or more to prevent water evaporation, as well. Opt for a thicker, organic mulch, such as shredded wood or bark nuggets. It’s best to use an organic mulch, since it will break down as the tree grows, adding nutrients to the soil. Reapply mulch if needed.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
If your soil is not very rich, add some good soil amendments when planting your persimmon tree to give it a healthy start. Avoid over-fertilizing since your tree needs to adapt to the soil it’s planted in. Too much fertilizer could cause weak new growth and fruit to drop. You can also top dress the soil with compost once a year to help add nutrients that fertilizer would give.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
The trees have very few natural pests but mealybugs or other pests associated with ants may become a problem. Treat with organic methods to protect the fruit.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
The Persimmon may bear fruit about 3 years after they’re planted. Harvest the fruit between September and December. The fruits may remain on the tree into winter, providing a sweet treat for lucky birds and other wildlife. While the fruit looks large for a berry, that is, in fact, its morphological form (similar to a tomato).
How to Harvest:
Depending on the variety, the fruit will begin to turn reddish-orange. Some varieties will remain hard, while others will become soft when they’re ripe. If you have an Asian persimmon tree, use a pair of handheld pruning shears to cut the fruit off of the tree. If wildlife begins to eat your fruit, harvest them early and place them in a bag with a banana for 7 to 10 days to ripen (a warm room will speed it up).
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
When ripe, the fruit has what can be described as a custard-like texture and the sweet flavor is often said to remind people of honey. There are a variety of persimmon cultivars categorized as “astringent” which affects when they can be eaten. An astringent cultivar must be soft before it can be eaten. A non-astringent cultivar may be eaten crisp like an apple such as the Asian persimmon. Overripe persimmon is practically not amenable to storage. You must refuse to buy it or eat it right away. Persimmons can be stored fresh, frozen, chilled or dried. If the fruits have been frozen, then they must not be re-frozen. The defrosting process should be accompanied by immersing the fruit in cold water. If you wait for the ice to dissolve at room temperature, then the fruit may change its taste, and the aroma and characteristic taste will become less pronounced.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Persimmons will better retain their freshness if the fruits are regularly ventilated (lack of oxygen can shorten the shelf life of fruits). If there are a lot of persimmons, then you can store it on the balcony in a wooden box with holes, so that there must be sufficient ventilation inside it. Persimmons can be sprinkled with a small amount of sawdust, and the fruits of the lower row should be placed “cup” down, and the top one – “cup” up. If persimmon is stored in the refrigerator in close contact with other fruits, then it must be eaten as soon as possible, as the process of ripening and further decay will happen rapidly. If the persimmon does not provide a sufficient level of air humidity, then the fruits will quickly begin to dry out, and their surface will be covered with fine wrinkles / when storing persimmons in the freezer, the astringent astringency leaves the fruits, and they become sweeter. Persimmons frozen in sugar syrup are well stored / after freezing, the persimmon pulp may disrupt its consistency (the taste will not change or deteriorate) / one of the ways of storing persimmons is drying (the peel is first removed from the fruit, and then they are dried in the oven for 40 minutes at a temperature of 45 degrees) / tomatoes and apples will help to make the persimmon sweeter (persimmon is placed with them in one paper bag for several days) / under the influence of heat, the astringent astringency of persimmons increases (that is why persimmon jam has a rather specific taste) / it is not worth removing the stalks from the persimmon (their absence will shorten the shelf life) / you can store persimmons in the refrigerator in open containers or paper bags (the lack of oxygen can accelerate decay, therefore, it is not recommended to use plastic bags in which condensation accumulates) / hard persimmons, which do not contain seeds, are stored longer than soft fruits.
Seed Saving:
Persimmon can be propagated from seeds, root cuttings, suckers and by grafting. Plants can be easily produced from seed after a 3-month period of seed stratification. Seedlings that are 1 to 2 years old may be transplanted to the orchard. To ensure high quality plants and fruit, however, it is best to graft or bud the seedlings or plant grafted trees.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

It’s best to do some research on the specific variety of your persimmon tree since the different varieties can have different needs and flavor profiles. Some of the more readily available cultivars known for large, tasty fruit include Claypool, Dollywood, and Early Golden.

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