Pepper – Sweet Peppers, Chilli Peppers • Vegetable • Organic Living

Pepper – Sweet Peppers, Chilli Peppers

All types of peppers are a part of the Capsicum family, which includes sweet (red and green bell, Pimiento) to hot and spicy (Cayenne, Jalapeno, Anaheim, Serrano, Black, Ghost, Chilli). The Banana and Cherry come both sweet and hot.

Introduction

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:

Sow the seeds in March. Once the plants get true leaves (leaves that come up after the first two open up) then you can plant each seedling into a pot and can re-pot several times to ensure the plants have a continues growing time. Once the plant is established you need to decide where to plant them. If growing in pots you need to give them a large pot of at least 10 to 12 inches (25.4 to 30.5 cm). Alternatively plant them in soil or growbags in your greenhouse. If you are keeping them outside, plant them out when all risk of frost has gone, usually end of May. Soaking your seeds can help to break down the seed covering and expedite the growing process of the peppers. Place the seeds in a cup of water and leave them for 2 to 8 hours, or until they sink to the bottom of the cup. Make a cup of weak chamomile tea to disinfect the seeds and break down the seed coats. Mix 2 tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide with a cup of lukewarm water to soak the seeds in if chamomile tea is unavailable. Should you sow your seeds in a tray or old plastic or cardboard milk jug with holes poked in the bottom, fill the bottom of the seed tray with pebbles or small rocks and then cover with potting soil. Plant seeds half an inch apart just under the surface of the soil, and water well. Use any large light to help the seeds grow. Peppers need a lot of sunlight, but the seeds can’t get enough sun from a window indoors. (it doesn’t have to be a hot light but place it as close to the seedlings as possible.) Once each seedling has 2 pairs of true leaves, transplant them from their starter trays into 2 – 4 inch (5.1 to 10.2 cm) pots with potting soil. Keep the plants under light until they grow 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to 15.2 cm) tall. About two weeks before you plan to transfer your delicate plants outdoors, gradually expose the plants to the outdoor climate. Start by placing your seedlings outdoors or a few hours each day, in an area protected from direct sunlight and wind. Slowly extend the number of hours the plants stay outside as they continue to grow. Avoid leaving the peppers outside overnight until you’re almost done hardening them off. Place doming caps of your own making over young plants if the weather is cold and rainy.

Optimal Soil Conditions:

Grow the largest peppers in full sunlight, but they can grow in a bed that has a little shade. Avoid planting peppers in an area in complete shade. If your soil is very rocky or tends to flood in the rain, consider using pots or building a raised bed for your peppers. Peppers grow best in a soil with a pH between 6.2 and 7.0. Error on the high side of the pH scale, however, as peppers can withstand slightly alkaline conditions. Soil amendments improve aspects of the soil’s physical condition, including its pH level. If your soil is typically acidic, consider working some lime into it a few months before planting, then conducting a second pH test to ensure you’re in the desired range. If your soil is too alkaline, use peat moss or garden sulfur.

Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:

Different varieties of peppers take different amounts of time to grow, so check your pepper species to find out. Hot peppers take the longest – about 12 weeks until maturity – while bell peppers take about 8 weeks to reach maturity. Peppers don’t grow in cold or frosty soil, so wait to plant them until the weather has warmed enough. Plant peppers outside at least one month after your last day of frost for the best temperature of soil. You can look up the last frost date in your area on the Internet or in a farmers’ almanac. Choose a date that you feel matches the temperature requirements of outdoor soil for you peppers, and count back 8 to 10 weeks from that date; this is when you will start your seedlings. End of May is typically a good time to plant peppers, meaning that you start your seeds in early March. Mix compost into your soil and remove any rocks and separate any large chunks in the dirt. Space each plant between 1.5 feet to 2 feet (45.7 to 61 cm) apart and insert stakes to help the plant stand up if necessary. Space rows of peppers about 10 to 15 inches (25.4 to 38.1 cm) apart. Straw and grass clippings make great mulch for pepper plants, about two inches thick to all of the soil between and around each pepper plant.

Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:

Peppers benefit most from tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, and most herbs. Corn can do well with peppers and beans and peas keep nitrogen levels low so they can produce more. Avoid planting broccoli, potatoes, and strawberries nearby.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Some people pinch out the growing tips when the pepper is around 12 to 16 inches (30 to 40 cm) tall which encourages the pepper plant to become bushy. If you are growing a taller variety then you may need to stake the plant. Hot temperatures over 90°F (32°C) can hurt your pepper plants. Plant your peppers in an area where other taller plants will shade them during the hottest time of the day if high temperatures are a possibility.

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:

You need to water your plants little and often. Once the plants start to flower you need to feed them a weekly high potash feed.

Weeding Needs & Solutions:

Hand pick any weeds that may be present to prevent them from overrunning your pepper patch.

Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:

Choose a fertilizer such as fish emulsion or compost tea to spread an even coating. Keep feeding the pepper plants with a high potash feed as this will help new flowers set so you get more peppers. Other fertilizers include fish meal, chicken manure, or a pre-mixed fertilizer available for purchase at a local gardening center.

Pests, Diseases & Solutions:

You will need to protect young plants from slugs and snails and peppers can get gray mold or blossom which is often caused by irregular watering. If you see red spider mite then just spray mist your plants. And if you see white fly then spray the plants with soapy water. You can place a cardboard collar around the base of each stem to protect plants from cutworms. Crop rotation and resistant cultivars are the best defense against most pepper diseases

When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:

Usually, peppers take around two months to mature enough. It can take 4 to 5 months for a plant to produce but it depends on the climate and the plant species.

How to Harvest:

You can pick peppers as they come, usually late summer, it depends on how large you want them, you can pick them green or you can also let them ripen on the plant. Use scissors to cut the pepper at the top of the stem because pulling on your peppers can damage the fragile stalks and roots. If you are expecting a frost, be sure to pick all even if it is a bit under-ripe. A frost might damage any leftovers.

Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:

One nice thing about bell peppers is that they don’t need to be blanched before freezing. Wash, slice, place on parchment paper to freeze them on a cookie sheet and after getting frozen, put them in an airtight bag or container and date. Drying black peppercorns: Pick all the spikes at the same time, even if some aren’t fully mature yet. Keep in mind you’ll end up with a mix of green, black, and white peppercorns. Leave the spikes intact without removing any berries. Place the spikes out in the sun in a single layer. This initial ‘first drying’ is optional but recommended as it helps breaks down some compounds in the plant to create a better black color in the final peppercorn. This step may vary the most between different growers in different parts of the world, when it is done at all, it can last anywhere from a few hours to a few days. If they’re outside, they’ll need constant supervision to prevent birds from eating the riper berries. If you’re making a small batch at home, it’s easier to place them next to a window. Blanch the berries in boiling water for 5 to 6 minutes to kill microbes. Put the pepper spikes inside a fine mesh sieve, or (for large batches) a clean, food-safe cloth bag on the end of a stick. Lower the container into boiling water and leave it for several minutes. Blanching improves the flavor, color, and scent of the pepper and can help the berries dry more quickly. Lay them on a clean dry surface in direct sunlight. Keep the layer as thin as possible, with minimal overlap of berries. Gather the peppercorns after several days of drying (at least 2 to 3 days in very hot, dry weather or as many as 12 days in cool, humid weather). As an alternative to blanching, you could use an oven with a low-temperature “warm” as long as not greater than 160°F (70°C). Some dehydrators go up to 145°F (62°C). Often this takes less than a day. If you are drying pepper for your own use, the exact water percentage doesn’t matter. Just take out the pepper when they turn into black peppercorns. Some people dry the intact spikes, which makes it easier to remove the dried peppercorns afterward. To do this, you’ll need a way to hang the spikes in the air and revolve them regularly to dry them on all sides. Clean and sort the dry peppercorns. In a typical harvest, only about ⅓ of the green berries end up as usable black peppercorns. Remove any stems or leaves that you see and toss out any peppercorns that are broken or the wrong size/color. Store in clean, airtight containers for 3 to 4 years in a cool, dark area.

Optimal Preserving Procedures:

Seed Saving:

You can plant peppers from the seeds found inside and 70% of the seeds will germinate. Plant them as soon as you open the pepper to retrieve the seeds. (If you choose to buy transplants, select seedlings that are dark in color with strong stems. Also avoid transplants that already have peppers growing on them, as these tend to produce less in the long run.)

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Avoid getting peppers in your nose, eyes, or any other openings or cuts, which is a very painful experience. Protect your hands from burns with gloves in preparing to freeze. Pepper spray is made from chili peppers.

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