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Parsnips

Parsnips

A member of the family Apiaceae. It is a biennial vegetable usually grown as an annual. Its long taproot has cream-colored skin and flesh, and, left in the ground to mature, it becomes sweeter in flavor after winter frosts.
Introduction
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Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Parsnips seeds take at least 3 weeks to germinate. Soil temperatures must be steadily above 50°F (10°C) to grow parsnips. Wait until March, April or May, or whenever daily temperatures are between 50 and 70°F (10 to 21°C), to sow parsnip seeds. This is when the seeds germinate best. Parsnip seeds don’t germinate as well if temperatures frequently exceed 80°F (27°C) Parsnips require full sun to grow and anything more than 6 hours of sun per day is considered full sun. Don’t choose a planting site that gets any less than that or the parsnip seeds won’t germinate.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Parsnips need light soil that’s rich in organic materials to flourish. If your garden has heavy soil, dig it up thoroughly to break up chunks of soil and clumps of organic material. Avoid planting parsnips in clay or rocky soils. To test soil drainage, dig a hole 12 inches (30 cm) deep and 8 to 12 in (20 to 30 cm) wide. Fill the hole with water and let it drain completely. Wait 12 hours, then fill it with water again and time how long it takes for the water to drain. If the soil is well-draining, the water should all be gone in 2-3 hours tops. Hardiness zones are 2–9. Add an even layer of compost no more than 1 in (2.5 cm) thick to the top of the soil. This acts as fertilizer to provide the parsnips with more nutrients. The soil should have good levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Avoid adding clumps of fresh organic matter, such as manure, to the surface. This can cause misshapen roots. Make sure any compost you use is well broken up. Check soil pH for slightly acidic of 6-7. Work peat moss into the top 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) of soil to decrease the pH if it is not acidic enough or work lime in to increase the pH if it is too acidic.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Sow seeds in 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 inch (1.3 to 1.9 cm) deep. This is the ideal depth for germination. Push 2 or 3 seeds into the soil every 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so to help ensure enough germination. Cover each seed hole up lightly with soil or compost. Even the freshest parsnip seeds struggle to germinate, which is why it’s best to sow them somewhat thickly. (Parsnip seeds older than 1 year may not germinate.)
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Parsnips can infest with pests. The proximity of parsnips to carrots and celery will do a lot of harm than good. The best thing to do is to keep parsnips away from your garden. Can situate some chives plants close by though.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Parsnips require consistent moisture from when they are germinating until harvest time. Water your plot of parsnips about once a week if there is no rainfall that week or whenever the soil starts to dry out. Be careful not to let the soil dry out and crust over. When the parsnips start sprouting, reduce crowding. Pull up and discard any seedlings that are within 2 to 4 in (5.1–10.2 cm) of their neighbor.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Keep the soil weed free while you wait for seedlings to grow. Check on the planting site regularly and gently remove any weeds that you see growing. Avoid hoeing or digging weeds up or you could hurt the parsnips.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Add an even layer of compost no more than 1 in (2.5 cm) thick to the top of the soil. This acts as fertilizer to provide the parsnips with more nutrients. Grass clippings, leaves, and straw are all good choices for mulching.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Watch for swallowtail-butterfly caterpillars that like to feed on parsnips. If you see any caterpillars crawling on the foliage, pick them off by hand and discard them. They are green with black stripes and yellow spots. This is typically all it takes to control them and keep your parsnips safe. Carrot fly larvae cause parsnip roots to rot. To protect your plants from the flies laying their larvae, cover them with horticultural fleece or put 2 feet (61 cm) high barrier cover made of clear polythene around the plot to keep out the low-flying female carrot flies. (Once carrot fly larvae get into your parsnips and cause them to rot, there’s nothing you can do.) Prevention is the only way to deal with this problem. Garlic and onion spray will be one of your best defenses against garden pests.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Parsnips can take around 120 to 180 days (4 to 6 months) from planting to harvesting. You can leave the plants in the ground after that; parsnips can sustain frost.
How to Harvest:
Harvest when roots are 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. This is usually in late fall. Dig up the roots with a tilling spade, a shovel, or a spading fork. Note that parsnip foliage can cause skin irritation for some people, so wear gardening gloves and a long-sleeved top to be safe. You can expect to harvest about 1 lb (454 g) of parsnips per 1 foot (30 cm) of planting row. Individual parsnip roots can weigh more than 1 lb (454 g) each.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
If you don’t want to harvest all the parsnips in fall, you can cover the soil in mulch and overwinter them in the ground. Harvest them in the spring before the tops start to sprout. To ensure you get the whole root, loosen the soil with a fork before harvesting. Then, gently ease the roots out of the soil. Cut off all but a few inches (5 cm) of foliage. Parsnips can be stored in root cellar conditions between 32 and 35°F (0 to 1.6°C) with a humidity between 90 and 95%. Keep them in damp sand or sawdust, and they should last for 4 to 6 months.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Propagate your own plants by allowing some to go to seed in their second year. In the late summer, cut the mature seed heads off the plant. Place them in a single layer in a warm, dry spot with good air circulation to dry completely. Once the seed heads are dry, break them open and separate out the seeds. Store the seeds in an airtight container. They are best planted within a year, as germination can decrease as they age.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

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