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Okra

Okra

Okra grows in an elongated, lantern shape vegetable. It is a fuzzy, green colored, and ribbed pod that is approximately 3-5 inches (7.6 to 12.7 cm) in length. This vegetable is more famously known by its rows of tiny seeds and slimy or sticky texture when cut open. It’s from the Mallow family.
Introduction
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Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Okra is a vegetable that keeps on giving all summer long. When you harvest a pod, another grows in its place. It’s related to the hibiscus plant and produces similarly beautiful flowers. Okra grows best in hot climates, but even if you live in a Northern region, you can grow okra by starting it from seed indoors and transplanting when the weather warms up. You’ll want to plant the okra seeds in early spring, after the last frost of the year, when the temperature doesn’t dip below 55°F (13°C) at night. If that doesn’t happen until late spring or early summer where you live, then it’s better to start your seeds indoors 2-3 weeks before the last frost. When the seedlings are sturdy and the weather warms up, you’ll transplant them to your garden patch. To start seeds inside, plant the seeds in peat seed starter and keep them well-watered. Put them in a warm, sunny room or use grow lamps to keep them warm during the germination period. Keep the temperature between 65 and 70°F (18 to 21°C) To start seeds inside, plant the seeds in peat seed starter and keep them well-watered. Put them in a warm, sunny room or use grow lamps to keep them warm during the germination period. Keep the temperature between 65 and 70°F (18 to 21°C).
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Okra grows best in full, hot sun. If you try to grow it in a shady spot, it won’t produce much fruit, if it lives at all. Okra should be planted in a location that gets at least 6 hours of full sun every day and okra really gets going at summer’s peak, when the sun beats down on the garden at its hottest. It grows best in a soil with a pH level between 6.5 and 7.0. You can work in limestone or bone meal to increase the soil’s pH. If you’d prefer not to change the pH level of your soil using any drastic measures, you can simply work in plenty of compost, which will drive the pH towards neutral, or 7. Okra grows well in very rich soil that’s packed with nutrients. You can enrich your soil using compost, till the soil to a depth of 12 inches (30.5 cm) and work in 4 inches (10.2 cm) of compost or fertilizer using a garden rake so that it’s evenly distributed. Neglecting to add nutrients to the soil may result in okra plants that don’t produce a lot of fruit. Try using organic composts like well rotted cow manure and mixing it into your soil. You can also use the peels from vegetables, fruits and add crushed eggshells and any plant trimmings to the soil to enrich it.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
If you want to speed the germination of your seeds, you can soak them overnight the night before planting, or freeze them to crack the shells. If you’re transplanting seedlings, do not break their tiny taproots. If they get crushed, the seedlings will not grow. Sow your seeds 4 inches (10.2 cm) apart at a depth of ½ inch (1.3 cm). Plant them 1 foot (30 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Dig holes large enough to hold the root balls and gently pat the soil around the base of the plants. Water the garden to help set the soil.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Soil wilt diseases impact okra; do not plant okra where members of the solanaceous family have already grown (potatoes, tomatoes, etc.) or brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc.).

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

When the seeds you planted have sprouted and grown to 3 inches (7.6 cm) high, thin out the smaller seedlings and leave the strongest ones standing. Thin them so that the remaining seedlings are spaced 1 foot (30 cm) to 2 foot (60 cm) apart, in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. If you transplanted seedlings that you started indoors, you can skip this step.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Okra should be given at least an inch (2.5 cm) per week of water. Water every morning to thoroughly moisten the soil, except after heavy rains. Okra can withstand a bit of drought, but it grows much better when given plenty of water throughout the summer. It’s best to water okra in the morning so that the plants have time to dry before nightfall. If the water stands in the garden bed overnight, it could cause the plants to start rotting. When you water okra, try not to get water on the leaves. When the sun starts beating down on the okra plants, the water will act as a magnifying glass and burn the okra leaves.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
While the okra is still young, cultivate the bed to eliminate any weeds. Then cover the area around the seedlings with a heavy layer of mulch, such as pine straw. This will prevent additional weeds from sprouting and taking over the bed.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Since okra needs plenty of nutrients to grow, it’s a good idea to continue adding compost throughout the summer. You should side dress the okra with compost three times: once after thinning the seedlings, once after the first pods begin to grow, and a third time halfway through the growing season. To side dress, simply rake in a few inches of compost around the plants, so that the soil there gets enriched. Okra is a self-fertilizer, but is also able to be pollinated by insects. Sometimes the flower does not open, yet inside it is self-pollinating and a day later or so the wilted petals fall down without opening and still the fruit grows.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Aphids, stinkbugs, and corn earworms all like to feast on okra plants. The plants are hardy, and usually won’t fail on account of pests, but it’s a good idea to keep their populations low to get the most out of your okra crop. Inspect the stems and leaves regularly for holes, yellow leaves and other signs of pest infestation. You can pick the bugs off by hand or spray the leaves with soapy water to keep the pests away.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
About 8 weeks after planting the okra, the pods will start to grow. Once you see the first okra pods emerge and mature, you can start regularly harvesting them. Use a scissors or a hand pruner to cut the okra pods just above their caps, where their thick stems meet the branches of the plant. Once you make a cut, another okra pod will emerge from the same spot. Keep harvesting the okra throughout the summer until the growing season slows and the plants stop producing new pods.
How to Harvest:
Harvest the pods when they are 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long. Harvest the okra every other day, and every day in warm climates and during the peak of the season, to encourage fast regrowth. You may even need to harvest twice per day to keep up with growth at the peak of the season. If the pods get too big, they will become woody and tough. Okra’s taste and texture are best within a few days of harvest. You might want to wear gloves and long sleeves when you harvest the okra. The leaves and pods are covered with spines that can irritate the skin.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
You can pickle okra the same way you pickle cucumbers, using a salty brine. Pickle okra right after you harvest it for best results. If you simply have too much to eat, or you want to be able to enjoy okra during the winter, freezing it is a good option. To freeze okra, blanch it for 3 minutes, plunge it into an ice bath to stop it from overcooking, then chop it into bite-sized pieces. Place the pieces on a tray and freeze them until firm, then transfer them to a freezer bag for long-term storage.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Take okra seeds by cutting the okra itself. Pick out a plant that blooms early and produces lots of well-formed pods. Choose one with 3-5 pods. Tie a small ribbon around the plant that you have chosen. This is the plant that you will use for seeds. The ribbon helps to distinguish it from your other plants, so that you don’t accidentally pick the fruit while harvesting at the end of the season. Use your fingers to split the pod down the side or twist it until it breaks open. Because the pods are dried out, most of the seeds should just fall out of the pod. For seeds that are stuck in their compartments, simply use your fingers to remove the seeds. Place the seeds in a bowl or on a plate. Throw away any that are bruised or damaged. If you find that some seeds are still damp, place them on a clean cloth or paper towel and set them aside. Store the damp seeds in a cool, dry place for up to one week to allow them to finish drying. You can use a mason jar, plastic container, or baggie. Keep the seeds in a cool, dry place like a kitchen pantry or in the refrigerator. The dried seeds can be viable for up to 4 years.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

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