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Northern Wild Raisin Shrub

Northern Wild Raisin Shrub

Perennial deciduous Wild Raisin are generally multi- stemmed bushes that can grow to 6 ft tall by 6 ft wide, though they’re often smaller. The Honeysuckle Family known as Caprifoliaceae is the shrub’s classification.Some leaves are serrated but this plant is distinguished from other unlobed viburnumsby for lacking star-shaped hairs on underside of leaf and having leaf veins, which branch and reform before reaching the margins. It produces showy white flower cluster and the fruit is a drupe with an elliptic stone and sweet pulp, blue-black, 6 to 12 mm. The Bark is grey or brown and covered with small white spots. While in the autumn, the leaves turn rosy-orange. The plants thrive in wet shady areas as an understory shrub, and it’s a common food for wild birds. The berries are also edible for humans, and with plants bearing heavy annual crops, Wild Raisin is a good choice for permaculture plantings in shady areas beneath larger trees. The wood is of no commercial importance. Viburnum cassinoide, Viburnum nudum, Appalachian Tea, Raisinberry, Possumhaw, Witherod, and Raisinberry are other names.

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
It can be propagated from seed, hardwood, and softwood cuttings but the seed has proven to be the easiest. Hardy from zones 3 to 8. Fresh seeds which are refrigerator stored are best kept in glycine bags to prevent mold. If you do the refrigerator method, keep in mind that you have to plant them after the first cold period as the roots begin to emerge in the mid to late summer. Dormancy needed. Cold 38-42°F (3 to 5°C) for 120 days — Warm – air temperature during the summer. Roots will sprout now at the end of the warm period. Then cold again of 38-42°F (3 to 5°C) for 120 days. Tops will then come up at this point.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
It’s an adaptable plant that tolerates shade and wet soils findable to woodland and ponds. It will survive in full sun provided there’s enough soil moisture. It’s commonly used to prevent erosion along roadside ditches. Having an organic soil, clay, or loam (silt) helps with this species as the seeds dry out easily. The pH range is acidic for <6.0 or even neutral 6.0 to 6.8 .
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Seeds are planted in the fall with no cleaning or preparation. Germination the first summer is less than 50%, so plant seeds about 1/2 inch (12 mm) apart. They will continue germinating throughout the first growing season, even into November. A light mulch during summer and fall protects the soil from drying out and allows for late germination. Early seed collection may improve germination rates.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
To create a naturalized area with wet soil companion with plants like Silky Dogwood, Buttonbush, Meadowsweet, American Elderberry, Tamarack, Big Bluestem, Lady Fern, Wild Iris, Wild Bergamot, Spiderwart, Shooting Star, and Red Milkweed.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
If plants’ foliage is wet overnight, that gives some diseases a chance to get a good start in our gardens. The easiest way to prevent this is to water as early in the day as possible so that your plants can dry off before nightfall.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Good gardening practice means good sanitation – picking up plant debris, trimming away dying or unhealthy stems and branches, and keeping weeds to a minimum. If your plants are planted too closely together, or against a wall, they don’t get enough airflow. This stagnant environment is perfect for many fungal diseases make sure there’s good air circulation.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
The right amount of organic matter fertilizing (regular applications of compost or composted manure) will help your plants stay healthy.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
There is no frost or disease that impedes with the yields so no serious problems. Aphids, borers, nematodes, scale, and thrips can occasionally cause issues. Wash them off, spray a nontoxic insecticidal soap, or get female lacewing whereas each lays hundreds of eggs. Each larva consumes up to 600 thrips or aphids a day for two to three weeks before pupating. Leaf spot, anthracnose, and powdery mildew may be occasional disease problems. Aanthracnose means “coal disease” and the best way to deal with anthracnose on edibles is control and prevention. Crop rotation is probably the number one way to prevent diseases in your vegetable. Try putting a good layer of mulch around your bushes and you’ll likely have fewer issues with annoying disease. garden. Planting vegetables in the same spots year after year practically guarantees that fungal diseases and other pests that overwinter in the soil will give you headaches all season long. It’s helpful to know the different vegetable families, and how to rotate them in your garden.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
The abundant fruit turns from pale green into bright rose and then darkening into blue-black. The fruiting occurs late August through early September. Best eaten when nearly dried out on the branch, if you can get to it before the birds.
How to Harvest:
When left to raisin up as it dries on the shrub, the flavor improves. When the fruit has turned soft and black, the flavor is like a dried prune. Gather the clusters of fruit by gently cutting off the whole cluster and placing in a cardboard box to take home.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Store seeds with pulp on at 41°F (5°C). Some options are jams, jellies, or paste. if they are the type of Viburnum fruit that is best collected when shriveled up a bit, soak in water to rehydrate before any of the below procedures & make sure all bits of stem are removed. Each wild raisin contains a single, large seed that is soft some folks don’t bother removing it. Other folks may choose these methods: cooking the fruit, then separating the seeds and skin by putting the cooked fruit through a food mill or pushing through a sieve. You might find the odd source saying to remove the seeds first, before cooking. I don’t know if it really matters, but since the seeds are bitter, some will remove the seeds first. Yes, it is a bit more work, but not a lot. There are three ways I’ve tried, choose one you like: One way is to put all you have collected in the freezer and leave for a day, then take them out and let them thaw. They go mushy after that, and just run them though a food mill, take the seeds that are left over, put them in a container with some water, rub them around with clean hands, and put that through a sieve. After that, cook. Another way is put the fresh fruit in a pot, mash with a potato masher, then put it through a food mill, put the seeds in a container with water, rub around and sieve. There is a third way. Boil them in just enough water to cover them for 5 minutes, run though a food mill, put the seeds left over in a container with some water, rub around, sieve, put it all together, and cook for remaining 15 minutes or so, or until it has boiled down to the thickness you want. It will thicken more when fully cooled.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
The seeds are cooler stored after they dry down a little. If you start by seed, they usually take two years for the seed to germinate after planting.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

The optimal identification period for this species is early July through early September. The shrub is not self-pollinating so plant as hedge to ensure a higher fruit yield. A win-win to attract more pollinators. Landscape use for its extreme durability, border, screen, naturalizing, parking lots, mass plantings and groupings, to attract birds, provides a nice neutral effect in the landscape, difficult sites. Wild Raisin provides wildlife food and is valuable cover for many types of mammals and birds. Provide native plant alternatives to your backyard’s biodiversity which will improve the wildlife habitat to a city.

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