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Kiwifruit Vine

Kiwifruit Vine

This deciduous plant that was introduced in1962 and its 3 inch fruit is classified as a berry. It has an
oval shape with a furry brown skin edible skin. The green inside has tiny black seeds that can also be
eaten. Leaves of this plant are leathery in texture and are dark green colored.


They are huge in size of being about 7 to 10 inches diameter and oval shape. The woody vine can
grow 15–30 ft. tall and 6–10 ft. wide. From the family Actinidiaceae, its male plants have their fibers
more visible and they don’t grow white hairs while the females are way more sensitive, grow white
hairs and their fibers are not so strong and visible, like the male ones are. Some other common names
are Chinese gooseberry, woody vine, wood berry, hairy bush fruit, unusual fruit, and even wonder fruit.
It has a sweetish tart taste. Its taste can be compared with that of strawberries or melons or even
nectarines.
Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
If you want to grow a kiwi plant for its fruit, purchase a grafted plant from a nursery. 3 major types of kiwifruit: Common kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa)- which requires about a month of cool weather with temperatures ranging from 30 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 to 7ºC). Common Kiwi can be grown in hardiness zones 7 to 9. Golden kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) – is sweeter but more delicate in comparison. It is less fuzzy and more yellow. This fruit grows best in zones that experience winter lows ranging from 10 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-12 to -1ºC) zones 6 to 9. Kiwi berry – This name usually refers to two different kiwi species, the hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta) and the super-hardy kiwi (Actinidia kolomikta). These kiwifruits are much smaller compared to common and golden kiwis and have a thinner, smooth skin. As their names suggest, this type of kiwi is the most cold-tolerant and can be grown in areas that experience harsh winters zones 4 to 9. These varieties are sometimes able to produce fruit after just one growing season, in contrast to most others that take years to mature. All kiwifruit generally require a temperate environment with both cool winters and warm summers. Additionally, the vines can tolerate hot summer temperatures up to 114 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will need additional water to compensate.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
You will need adequate space for your kiwifruit plants to grow. Most kiwifruit plants grow best in either full sun or light shade. Kiwifruit generally need slightly acidic soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. The soil must be moist but well- drained. Build a sturdy trellis for your plants. Like other vines, they grow best across vertical structures that provide support and greater access to light. Kiwifruit vines can grow on most types of trellises, gazebos, and fences. Commercial kiwifruit growers use six-foot-high wire trellises with T-bars spaced 15 to 20 feet apart.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Transplanting kiwifruit plants is largely the same as other types of plants. The major difference is that you must space your plants so that each is at the base of its own support structure. Simply dig a hole for each plant that is a little bigger than their current pots about 10 ft. apart. Carefully lift each plant out of its pot, including the roots and the dirt they cling to, and place the roots into the holes you just dug. Finish by filling in the edges of the hole with loose dirt. Try to disturb the roots as little as possible to avoid shock. If you plant to grow fruit, keep as many plants as you have room for. Once they flower, which can take up to five years, you can identify the male and female plants and cull the extras. As your kiwifruit plant grows, it will begin to send out shoots. You will need to train these shoots to grow on the support by wiring the vines to the trellis. This will ensure that the plant will grow a strong “trunk” section. Some gardeners have used their fence lines as support.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Blueberry, currants, grapes, grapefruit, raspberry, catnip, lemon balm, lavender, marjoram, ajuga, clematis, and geranium are choices for companions.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

You should prune your kiwifruit plants once a year. Trim excess canes (vines that have grown a bark-like skin) and any lateral shoots not supportable by its trellis. Lateral shoots are branches that go off to the sides. Your kiwifruit vines will not be able to support the weight of such shoots on their own until they’ve reached the top of your trellis (when using the T-support system). Once the vines reach the top of the trellis, they will be able to grow more horizontally across it. The optimal time for pruning female plants is late winter while the plant is dormant. Male plants can be pruned sooner, right after flowering. Cull the male plants. Kiwi plants will usually flower within four or five years of planting. When this happens, you can identify the male plants by the bright yellow, pollen- covered anthers in the flower’s center. The female plants have sticky stalks (stigma) in the center instead, and white ovaries at the base of the flower. Only the female kiwi vines produce fruit. In order to get fruits, the female kiwi plant needs to be pollinated by a male plant. In general, a ratio of at least 1 male plant for 7 female plants is recommended. Remove the excess males and space the survivors an equal distance apart among the female vines.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Your kiwifruit vines will need consistent watering and are not tolerant of drought. Because of this, you should never allow their soil to dry out. That being said, they also don’t like wet feet, making well-draining soil especially imperative. If you notice any browning or drooping leaves on the vine, that’s usually a sign that your plant could use more water. Proper watering and pruning are especially important for kiwifruit vines since the fruit is formed on year-old wood.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Weeds may reduce vine growth and yields by competing for water, nutrients, and space. So they must be controlled in the area around the base of the vine.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Kiwifruit vines do best when planted in soil that is high in organic matter and nitrogen. If nitrogen isn’t present in your soil upon testing, you’ll want to amend your soil high in the nutrient. Regular feedings are especially important as the vine is growing and getting established. Plan to feed your plant upon planting, in early spring, and in summer after the flowers die off.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Protect your kiwifruit from animals. Even if all other conditions are perfect, your plants may be destroyed as they will be especially vulnerable until they have fully matured. The leaves of kiwifruit plants can sometimes attract deer. Keep your young plants safe with a fence around it or chicken wire surrounding your plants. Cats respond to kiwi leaves similarly to catnip. If you’ve ever tried to grow catnip, you probably know that neighborhood cats can easily destroy your plants. If there are outdoor cats in your area, take measures. Example strategies include building a fence, putting chicken wire around each, and natural repelling sprays. Unlike many other commercial fruit-bearing plants, kiwifruit do not have many insect enemies, so pesticides are to avoid. Some pests could be spider mites and thrips, both of which can be easily controlled with oil. Pests that feed on the plant’s fruit, mainly leafroller caterpillars and Japanese beetles, solution is to pick the fruit frequently and encourage birds, which are natural predators of these bugs, to visit your garden.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
While each vine can produce hundreds of pounds of fruit, it typically takes anywhere from 3 to as many as 7 years for these plants to reach maturity.Because of this large time investment, be sure to start with good stock and cultivate your kiwifruit plants using optimal methods. After a few years (or even that same year for hardy and super-hardy kiwi), your plants should start producing fruit. Yields may start out small but typically increase every year as the plant matures. Kiwifruit usually ripens in September and October. If frosts typically happen by then in your area, you will need to harvest the fruit before it’s ripe and let it finish ripening under refrigeration.
How to Harvest:
Snap kiwifruit off at the stalk when their skin begins to change color (to brown for common kiwifruit). Another way to check for harvest-readiness is to look for black seeds in a sample fruit. Test the kiwifruit for ripeness by pressing with your thumb. The fruit is ripe if it yields to slight pressure.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Put the kiwi fruit in the refrigerator until you’re ready to ripen them. Hard kiwis will last in the refrigerator for at least 4 months. Store kiwis alone so they don’t come into contact with fruits that make ethylene, the gas that causes fruit to ripen. You can place them in a bowl on your countertop and simply wait a few days. The fruit will ripen in 3 to 5 days if stored at room temperature. Don’t put the kiwis in direct sunlight. This could cause them to become discolored or rot too quickly. Keep ripened kiwi fruit in the refrigerator for as long as 7 days. You can extend the storage time for another week if you refrigerate them in a plastic bag. The bag lessens dehydration and prolongs freshness. You can freeze whole kiwi fruit. Simply place whole kiwis in a freezer-safe container and store them in the freezer for several months. Kiwi slices make great garnishes or additions to smoothies and other healthy treats so if you have extra kiwis on hand, you can slice them up and freeze them. Put the slices on a cookie sheet and slide the sheet into the freezer. Transfer the frozen kiwi slices from the cookie sheet into plastic freezer bags. Store them in the freezer.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Keep in mind that most kiwi growers favor purchasing young plants created through propagation from nurseries rather than sprouting them from seeds. This is partly because propagated cultivars possess traits that are much more consistent over generations. Since the way to tell the difference between male and female is through their flowers, it usually takes three or more years to happen so it’s difficult to accurately space seedlings for optimal pollination and fruit production. Growing kiwifruits from seed is a fun project and will give you a nice ornamental plant. Kiwifruit do not always grow true to type, meaning that your plant may not produce edible fruit like the one it came from. If you’ve decided to grow common kiwifruit, getting seeds can be as simple as going to the grocery store and buying a fruit. According to some gardeners, seeds from organic fruits are more likely to germinate and grow hardy adult plants. For more exotic types of kiwi, you can order inexpensive seeds from a variety of vendors. To remove seeds from a fresh kiwifruit, simply slice the fruit in half and scoop it out with your fingers or a spoon. Place the seeds in a small bowl or cup and rinse them to remove the fruit. To rinse, swish water around in the bowl and strain it back out a few times. Place your seeds in a resealable plastic bag along with a damp paper towel. Zip the bag up and put it in a warm spot. Check your seeds every day until you see that they have sprouted. If you notice the paper towel drying out before your seeds have germinated, be sure to moisten it again. The seeds need a humid environment to sprout. Plant your germinated seeds. Prepare and moisten a few pots of seed starter potting mix, one for every three or four seeds. Tear off a section of the moistened paper towel you used to germinate the seeds that has a three to four seedlings clinging to it. Plant this, paper towel piece and all, into one of your pots. Repeat until seedlings are planted. Place your plants in a spot that gets plenty of light. Windowsills are generally the best choice unless you have a basement equipped with grow lights. Young plants are especially sensitive to winter chills, so many growers keep their kiwi plants indoors for the first two years or so. Remember to transfer your plants to new, larger pots as they begin to outgrow their smaller ones. At this stage, begin boosting their nutrition using your preferred starter fertilizer.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Some people have reported being allergic to Kiwifruit. There are also kiwis that are self-pollinating, but cross-pollination will most often result into more fruits. It is not a house plant so inside growing would mean a greenhouse with space. If you partially bury a cutting in soil, it will take root. The surest sign that a kiwifruit has past its prime is when it’s too soft to the touch or mushy inside. A ripe kiwi is just slightly soft and pliable to the touch, but it continues to get ever squishier once it peaks. Another indication that a kiwi is in decline is the presence of an off- smelling odor, even before cutting into it; an as-of-yet unripe or ripe kiwi has no discernible smell. Bad kiwifruit may also have wrinkling skin, decaying spots or mold growth. Uses: It is used to make jams and jellies/ popular choice for making pies and cakes /great for fruit salads and other deserts / helps in cooking of the meat properly in any meaty stew / patients with respiratory problems are suggested to include kiwi in their diet regularly / The leaves are boiled and made into a balm to help many skin conditions / ropes are made from the branches and twines of this plant / oil extracted from the seeds used in personal care.

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