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Jujube Tree

Jujube Tree

The tree is deciduous in the genus Ziziphus in the buckthorn family Rhamnaceae.
Jujube trees may be productive for more than 100 years. The tree can grow to a height of 30- 50 ft.
The leaves are dark green and with a shiny waxlike appearance above and a layer of fuzz on the
lower side. The tree loses its leaves in the winter to make an ornate specimen with upright trunks,
short angled shoots, and rough bark. The leaves turn vivid yellow in autumn.


The 1 to 1 ½ long fruit is very sweet, reddish brown when ripe with a white flesh fruit that are
round to oval shape. A single kernel like an olive pit has a seed inside the fruit and the dark brown
appearance and this seed gives rise to the common name, Chinese Date. The texture and flavor
more closely resemble that of an apple than a date. Their chewy, spongy texture makes a very
satisfying snack. The fruit and its seeds are used in Chinese and Korean Traditional Medicine. The
Jujube (pronounced ju-ju-ba) is the long lost relative of Seabuckthorn.
Introduction
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Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Plant hardiness zones are 6 through 11 and the plants are mostly propagated from softwood cuttings (one of the most important steps, because without a good stem, the cutting will not take root). Jujubes are more productive in zones 8a and up, but short to mid-season ripening cultivars such as Kongfucui can grow and fruit well in colder climates. Most varieties require a different variety as a pollinizer. Climate for jujubes should be hot and dry. They can survive drought and excess moisture better than any other fruit but are better adapted to the more arid areas rather than the Gulf Coast but this exceptional fruit tree will grow in salty soils and are salt water tolerant when planted in coastal areas.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Soils for jujubes can range widely, but they do require fair to good drainage. They usually bloom late enough to escape spring frosts. Jujubes also grow well in extremely alkaline soils, such as in soils with high pH to 8 alkaline and very good yield results come from Eastern and Southern U.S. plantings. The toleration range is pH 5.1 to 7.8 (minor nutritional deficiencies occur between pH 7.8 to 8.5). With this notable exception, jujubes will survive on soils where most other trees would perish. Growing jujube trees is not difficult as long as you have sandy, well-drained soil. They do need to be planted in FULL sun.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Ants and wind, rather than bees, seem to do most of the pollination. Hand pollination may be needed when pollinating insects are absent or lack interest. Trees should be planted 30′ from the foundation of any structure and 50′ from water pipes and sewer/septic systems. The roots of a jujube tree can extend 12-25′ deep. Space each tree 15-30′ apart depending on expected mature width. From Cuttings: Choose 4-6 inches long stems with small leaves near the tip and mature leaves at the bottom. Cut multiple stems as the cuttings do not root sometimes. Plant the cuttings directly in the garden or container. By route of seed, plant the jujube seed as deep as the seed is long or 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep. Brush soil over the seed and press it down. Water the pot and place it in a sunny location that is at least 65 to75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the pot evenly moist until germination. Planting seeds is a hit or miss to grow jujube. As most of the trees produce fruits without cross- pollination and seeds taken from the self-pollination tree’s fruits are usually not viable. That said, you can: Collect 3-4 jujube seeds in late summer or fall after the fruit ripens to redbrown color. Soak it in warm water for an hour, scrub and clean it properly. Carefully break the endocarp with a handheld nutcracker, it helps in fastening the gemination. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch deep directly into the garden soil or pot.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Growing wheat or cotton as companion crops between jujube tree rows is a common and profitable practice.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Root sprouting is a problem under mature plantings and can lead to the formation of a thicket if control measures are not undertaken. As soon as sprouts form, they should be cut off at or under the ground. Any root injury will encourage root sprouting, so cultivation should be avoided where possible. Plants produced from these sprouts will not produce the same type of fruit as the mother plant if the tops are grafted onto a rootstock. Young plants should not be used as a source of new plants unless they are grafted.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Although this hardy tree will tolerate drought, regular water will help with fruit production. Begin to water weekly as the tree breaks bud and leafs out in the Spring. Increase the frequency of water to twice per week in the Spring. Water 2-3 times per week during the hot Summer months. Reduce irrigation frequency to 1-2 times per week in the Fall. Stop watering your tree in the Winter while it is dormant.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Keep a clean environment, free of weeds and dropped fruit that host insects or attract animals. Harvest when fruit reaches size and store indoors. Use natural repellents and bird netting to protect your harvest from other animals if necessary. Apply organic mulch inside the drip line, 8″ away from the trunk, to reduce moisture loss.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Do not fertilize the tree in the first year. Since Nitrogen is important In Texas, a rule of thumb would be to use 0.2 lb Nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter up to a maximum of 1.0 lb. A single application just prior to growth in the spring is usually adequate. Second year plants will respond to applying the material in three applications at monthly intervals usually April, May, and June. If split applications are used, Use 1/3 of the total in each application. Another option, is to use organic manure, bone meal, blood meal, and humus based fertilizers right before spring growth.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Pests are rarely a problem in jujubes though cotton root rot can be a major limiting factor on those sites where it is present. If plant loss is contributed to this disease, do not replant in the same area as additional losses are a certainty. Horticultural oils such as Neem oil is an organic pesticide that controls tiny, soft bodied insects. Use organic Bordeaux and Liqui-cop to manage fungus causing diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, and leaf-curls. Be careful of the pocket gopher that may attack the roots. Though rabbits don’t really bother with the bark, they love all parts of this tree so a fence protection until it is too tall for the rabbits to reach the leaves may be in the plan.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Jujube trees are very precocious. They bear flowers the same year as planting or grafting, and some cultivars can even bear some fruit. Most cultivars will produce a few fruits in the second year. After 4 to 5 years, jujubes will have a reasonable yield. Jujube turns yellow with spots when ripening. Depending on the variety , the fruit usually ripens in July and August or even September to October. It will gradually turn from a light green (immature) to a dark brown (mature) and then become wrinkled (drying).
How to Harvest:
The fruit ripen on the tree a few at a time, over many months. In cooler summers, before fall rains return, pick them half brown and half green inside to finish ripening. At maturity, skin color is mahogany and the fruit should be harvested before the skin becomes wrinkled if you’re eating as fresh. You can also leave the fruit on the tree until it fully dries. Cut the stem when harvesting rather than pulling the fruit from the vine. Fruit should be firm to the touch.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Fresh or dried, eat with the thin skin as it contains many nutrients (considered a superfood). The fruit is best stored between 52 and 55 degrees F. (11-13 C.) in a green fruit bag. The leaves are sometimes picked for teas, as it counts as a variety of herbal tea. Drying jujubes should be oven dried when harvested fully red. They can then be refrigerated as long as one year. Other ways to eat are candied, made into the equivalent of apple butter, or made into syrup for sweetening teas and dishes.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Cuttings are often grafted onto seedling rootstock. Cuttings of new primary shoots taken late spring to root often develop sufficient roots in two months. Cuttings of woody stems taken late winter may have a higher rooting percentage but take about three months to produce sufficient roots. Root sucker seed is not true to its parents and seed without cross-pollination is often not viable. Some cultivars of are vigorous, with fewer thorns and suckers so should provide rootstock with fewer problems. If propagation of jujubes is a whip-graft of root sprouts to the variety desired, the fruit from these seedlings will usually be of inferior quality; however, they are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to maintain.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Sharp thorns on many cultivars. Prune fruit trees in the Winter to maintain size and shape to prepare for Spring growth. Thin the tree in the Summer, and remove excess fruits. Remove any dry twigs and branches. Cut off any new growth below the graft or very low in the tree, this will direct the plant’s energy to its main branches. Thin your trees during the Spring and Summer seasons to ensure the plant’s energy is directed as desired. If the plant provides an overly large quantity of fruits for that branch, reduce the quantity of fruit so that what remains grows larger. This will also prevent broken limbs. Harvest ripe fruit to prevent undesired pests. The timber is sometimes used for small items, such as tuning pegs for instruments. Select grade Jujube timber is often used in traditional Asian instruments for fingerboard, pegs, rests & soundposts, ribs & necks etc. It has a medium to hard density similar to luthier grade European maple and has excellent tonal qualities. Jujube Wood can be found in local folk instruments from Ceylon / India thru to China / Korea and it is also commonly used in China in violin & cello making for overseas export, though usually stained black to imitate the look of ebony. Luthier grade jujube wood planes and carves beautifully. Both the Li and the Lang varieties should be grafted as they do not come true to seed: Li Jujube – a popular cultivar, produces large, round fruit that can weigh up to 3 oz. Good picked at the yellow-green stage and eaten fresh. (also reported as the best flavored). Lang Jujube- another very popular variety that produces large pear-shaped fruit. For this variety it is best to eat dried fruit. (produces a more spreading tree than other jujube trees). Honey Jar Jujube- the fruit is round to elongated and small to medium sized. Excellent for fresh eating, this jujube is very sweet and crisp. (tree grows to 20 feet). Shanxi Li Jujube- the most popular fresh eating variety in China. Medium to large fruit that has a sweet apple flavor. (very productive tree). Many countries have their own names for this tree: Cottony Jujube, Desert Apple, Azufaifo Indian Cherry, Datte Chinoise Indian Date, Indian Jujube, Indian Plum, Jujuba, Malay Jujubeberra (Pashto), Badari, Ber, Beri, Filzblattrige Jujube, Chinese Apple, Hong Tsao, Sanebuto-natsume, Cherumali, Dadara, Elandai, Perita Haitiana, Coolie Plum, Annab, Innab.

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