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Hazelnut Shrub or Tree

Hazelnut Shrub or Tree

This deciduous shrub or small tree of the family Betulaceae (Birch) is what we can thank
for the delicious hazelnuts that we find ourselves enjoying. Corylus avellana (Common hazel tree) is a
relatively carefree plant.

Corylus americana (American hazelnut) is a great choice for northern growers, tolerant to both heat and cold, and resistant to Eastern filbert blight) / Corylus maxima (Red filbert) is referred to as the giant filbert.

They are a few of the most commonly grown varieties and can range from 8 to 20 feet tall with a 5 to 15 foot width grown as shrubs or small trees making good windbreaks. They have fuzzy, heart-shaped, serrated leaves that are a few inches in length, and produce showy catkins in the early spring and are prolific pollinators.


After pollination, the female flowers mature into edible nuts, which turn from green to brown as they
mature. These grow to roughly 1/2 inch in size. They are each encased in leaf-like bracts and appear
in clusters of two to five. The nuts encased in papery husks are ready in the late summer or fall. Since
they are fairly compact shrubs or trees and can be pruned easily, they are a great choice if you don’t
have a ton of space for growing trees.


American hazelnut can self-pollinate so are monoecious ( produce both male and female flowers on
the same tree, although they may not bloom at the same time) and are prolific pollinators. If you want a
self-pollinating hazel, there are hybrid varieties available. Male and female trees are readily available
online from specialty retailers specializing in fruit and nut trees. (European Common hazel don’t self pollinate so would need a female and male tree.) When selecting cultivars, it is important to plant more
than one variety.

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Hazels are great at existing in temperate areas. They are not particularly good at resisting deep freezes, nor are they able to deal with extreme heat and humidity. If you want your tree to thrive, keep it in Hardiness zones 4 to 9. Some varieties can even be grown in Zone 3, though springtime temperatures that dip below 15°F after the flowers bloom can lead to crop loss. Once hazelnuts get going, they can really grow quickly, averaging 13-24 inches per year.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
Placing hazelnut in a location that receives full sun most of the day will give you the best yield of flowers and nuts if that is what you are trying to achieve. It will tolerate part shade as well, but you will see a decrease in flower production. As a rule of thumb, filberts need at least four hours of direct sunlight per day for good nut production. The hazel tree is very adaptable, but it is best to avoid densely packed soils, clays, or rocky soils. Its preference would be to grow in sandy loams that drain well. They don’t do well in boggy, waterlogged areas. Soil that is too rich in nutrients will cause vegetation to flourish at the expense of the fruit. They are best planted in light soils with a pH of 5.5 to 7.5. Only if your goal is as a windbreak, space the plants six feet apart within a row and 16 feet between rows for farmstead and feedlots.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
They can be propagated in a number of ways. You can start them from a) seed, b) transplant nursery stock, or c) grow them from runners : a) If you have lots of time and you’re not in a rush to bring in your first harvest, starting from seed can be a very economical option. If you can find wild seeds from another hazel tree, it may even be free. Before sowing your seeds, you can test their viability by submerging them in water. Discard any that float to the top. Next, score the seeds to aid germination. You can do this by using a file to carefully create a small slash in the outer seed coat. In the fall, plant the seeds in the garden 15 to 20 feet apart and two inches deep, with the slightly pointed side facing downward. (They are wind pollinated, so be sure to space plants no more than about 50 feet from each other.) Protect them over the winter with a cold frame or a thick layer of mulch. You can also start seeds in pots in the fall. Plant one seed an inch or two deep in an eight-inch pot filled with potting soil. Germination takes several months, so be patient. Keep the pots outside on a covered porch, or somewhere that they won’t become waterlogged. Once the weather warms in spring, water regularly to maintain consistent moisture, and seedlings should appear after a few weeks. Alternatively, you can cold stratify seeds indoors by putting them into a zip-top bag filled with one part sand and one part peat moss. Keep it in the refrigerator over the winter and then move the bag to a warm place in your house for a few days, or until you see signs of germination. After the seeds have sprouted, plant each seedling in an eight-inch pot filled with potting soil. Continue to grow the seedlings in the pots over the summer, keeping them in part shade, and transplant into the ground in the fall once seedlings reach eight to 10 inches in height. b) Saplings purchased as nursery stock or started from seed the previous year can be planted in the ground in late fall or winter during dormancy, to prevent heat stress and reduce the need for watering. Space transplants 15 to 20 feet apart and plant them in holes dug to the depth of the roots and twice as wide. To plant bare root saplings or potted shrubs purchased from a nursery, wet the roots thoroughly prior to planting, then dig a hole as deep and twice as wide as the root ball and place it in the hole. Refill the hole, mixing in equal parts compost, sand, and peat moss if working with heavy clay soil. Tamp down as you fill in the hole to remove air pockets. The soil line should be even with the surrounding soil. Water deeply after planting. c) You can also propagate filberts from the suckers that appear around the base of an existing shrub, or from underground runners. During early dormancy in the late fall, dig up a sucker and the attached roots. Replant runners about 15 feet apart a foot below the soil line. Stooling, or mound layering, is a method that involves piling soil around the base of an established shrub, leaving it in place for a year, and then dividing the new rooted stems that have developed for replanting. This technique is common in commercial growing, though it can certainly be done in the home garden as well.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
The best companions for the hazelnuts are plants that are Nitrogen-fixing or plants that attract pollinators and improve the soil around them. These plants include comfrey, Primrose, coriander, asparagus, wild garlic, currants , and various bulbs. Avoid plants such as fennel, leeks and beets. Hazelnut is also one of the few plants that is juglone resistant, meaning that it can be planted as a barrier plant between walnut trees and other plants.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Keeping your hazel tree watered is important to ensure profuse flower and nut production. It will not tolerate drought and will need supplemental watering to remain a viable producer if you look forward to it fruiting during dry periods. Water it using the same standard rule to establish 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter after planting. Using this method will keep your hazel green and blossoming in even the driest of weather. While the mature trees are drought tolerant, young shrubs need constant moisture and should never be allowed to fully dry out. Water each week during the growing season until they are well established,taking special care to water deeply during dry weather. Aim for about an inch of water every 10 days or so for the first two seasons after planting.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Weed control is necessary for good establishment and uniform growth. Control weeds the first years by tilling or the addition of mulch as a weed barrier
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Hazelnuts don’t need additional fertilizer in good soil. Rich soils cause the plant to leaf at the expense of fruit. Avoid overly fertile grounds.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Hazelnuts are delicious! If you don’t want to share your nuts with forest friends, keep an eye out for critters large and small that may want in on your crop. Deer and rabbits both enjoy munching on the leaves, branches, and catkins. And squirrels, of course, love to eat the nuts. While it isn’t easy to keep them off your trees, it is a good idea to be vigilant and try to pick the nuts before the squirrels do! Wire cages can also be very useful to protect young trees from hungry herbivores. Plastic netting, irritants or similar protective devices could be used to prevent damage the first five years. There are a number of insects that also enjoy eating hazelnuts. Keep your eye out for these common pests to reduce damage to your crop: 1) Filbert worm (aka Acorn moth) – small reddish brown moths with a thin brown band running across the wings, and the larvae are about ½ inch in length with a dark brown head and a beige to pink body. The larvae overwinter in the soil, emerging as moths in spring and laying eggs on hazelnut husks. The young larvae that emerge then enter and feed on the developing nuts, tunneling their way through and completely destroying the kernels. The nuts may also become infected by secondary bacterial or fungal pathogens. Predatory insects such as parasitic wasps will eat the larvae happily. Try incorporating lots of flowering perennials like dill, daisies, and marigolds to encourage the presence of beneficial insects to reduce pests. (Large-scale growers often use mating disruption pheromones to reduce the population of acorn moths in their orchards). 2) Nut weevils- this beetle is characterized by its elongated snout and ranges from about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in size and munches on buds and leaves in the spring, damaging foliage, and lay their eggs in the developing nuts in early summer. The larvae emerge in late summer to feed on the nuts, creating holes in the shells. The infected nuts do not drop, and often end up being harvested along with the healthy remainder of the crop, at best creating a nuisance for harvesting, and at worst effectively ruining the crop. One way to remove weevils naturally is to place tarps under the trees during the late summer after a rainstorm, and shake each tree until the adult weevils fall to the ground. They will remain still for a few minutes after falling, at which point they can be collected in a bucket of soapy water and disposed of, or collected to be fed to your chickens. You can continue to repeat this method until early fall. The diseases that tend to plague filberts are those that thrive in wet soils. You can do a lot to mitigate disease risk by planting your trees in places that are not waterlogged, with well-draining soil. Eastern Filbert blight- the fungus causes cankers to form on branches and blossoms, leading to rapid wilting and dieback of foliage and branches. This is a serious issue for the European species, C. avellana, in particular. Cankers appear as dark, raised lumps on infected plant tissue. Remove and dispose of branches with cankers. Armillaria root rot (aka oak root fungus)- leaves infected with this fungus will become discolored and drop, followed by branch die-off and the eventual death of the entire plant. Yellow mushrooms may also appear at the base of the plant. Once this disease takes hold, plants need to be removed and disposed of. The best way to prevent armillaria is to plant resistant rootstock. This bacterial disease causes damage to young branches, as well as the death of buds and leaves. Bacterial canker- is a particular problem in European hazelnuts. New growth withers, and buds and leaves die, remaining attached to the tree after healthy leaves drop in the fall. Cankers can also be seen, appearing as gray areas on the bark. Cut out and dispose of infected plant matter to prevent further spread.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Remember to always harvest sustainably, leaving the majority on each shrub intact for wildlife hazelnut trees (also known as filberts) take four to five years until the first harvest comes in and they don’t require as much space as other nut trees. When the plant is mature enough for the first harvest, the nuts will drop from the branches as they ripen in the autumn (September to October).
How to Harvest:
All you have to do is rake them into a pile or put a tarp under the tree to collect them.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
After collecting, the nuts must be dried for storage. It is easiest to wait until the clusters are dry to remove the nuts from the bracts. Spread them out in a single layer on trays or screens in a warm, dry place out of the sun. Turn them every few days until the outer bracts are easy to remove. This should take about two to four weeks. They can then be shelled, or stored in the shells. To speed the drying process to just one or two days, you can dry them in a dehydrator set to 90-105 F. In the shell, they can be stored at room temperature for several months. Shelled, eat them within a few weeks, or store them in the refrigerator for up to a year. To increase their shelf life, wait to process them until just before use.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
A mature hazelnut tree can produce 10 – 15 pounds of cleaned seed.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Delicious treats are not the only reason people plant these trees. As attractive flowering hedges, they become valuable food sources for birds (attracting seed-eating birds, such as blue jays and woodpeckers) and small mammals, making your landscape into a miniature wildlife reserve. Prune to remove suckers, or remove lower and hanging branches to shape into a tree. The primary upkeep task for a hazelnut tree involves cutting away the suckers that all hazels seem to develop. You may actually want this if you are using your hazel for attracting wildlife and birds. The sucker growth will create a thicket and give shelter and a habit to the critters and feathered friends when they need it. If you’d prefer it not, cut the sucker growth and create a brush pile with it as a shelter, or if you are the crafty type, it is fantastic for all kinds of crafts, from basketry to wreathe making. When pruning, be careful not to confuse suckers with lateral branches. Don’t remove any branches that shield the trunk from sun exposure, or you will end up with irreversible, prolific sprouting. Grown commercially mostly for their nuts, the wood is also used for making baskets, tool handles, fencing, and lightweight coracle boats. Oil from the common hazel (C. avellana) is also used in food products and cosmetics. The leaves are mainly used as cattle feed, the twigs as rabbit feed and goat feed. They also provide bee fodder.

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