Fruit Cocktail Tree

It is no fantasy and has been around since the 1990s – a single tree that produces a
variety of fruits. It is done by grafting different fruits from the same family onto one root system.
They are self-pollinating and in spring your tree will be loaded with an abundance of blossoms. A
spectacular sight for the whole neighborhood to enjoy. These Fruit Salad trees grow up to six
different types of fruit all on the one tree. Dwarf Fruit Cocktail Tree Prunus – brings forward Purple
Plum, Red Plum, Yellow Nectarine, Red Nectarine, Peach, and Apricot as a one tree orchard
outside or inside. There are four common fruit cocktail varieties available namely: Stone fruit –
peaches, plums, nectarine, apricots, and peachcots / Citrus – bears oranges, mandarins, tangelos,
grapefruit, lemons, limes, and pomelos / Multi apple – puts out a variety of apples / Multi nashi –
includes various Asian pear varieties. If you want some other different varieties, you’ll
have to look for cocktail cherry trees and other varieties that acts as its own
“cocktail” yielder. Dwarf fruit trees will live between 15-20 years vs. a full-size one that lives
between 35-45 years.

Introduction

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:

Fruit Salad Trees can be grown in a container, in the ground, on your balcony, or backyard and are suitable for all climates. Hardiness zones are 5 to 8. They can spread up to 10 ft. tall and 10 ft. wide and some can be as small as 2 or 3 ft. Chill hours mean the fruit trees require a certain number of at or bellow 45 F every winter to end their dormancy to flower and bear fruit in the spring. (for example, you might need to choose a “lowchill” tree). Heat tolerance means apples like warm days and cool nights. Peaches and nectarines love long, hot summers, pears and cherries prefer cooler climate. Make sure to choose a tree that can handle the summer heat in your area.

Optimal Soil Conditions:

They are adaptable to most soil types and like soil pH 6.0 to 7.0. Most will need a full sun day but some growers do 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily whereas others recommended to place the tree in a location where it can bathe in the afternoon sun. The indoor fruit cocktail tree is perfect for the fruit lover who has limited to no gardening space available. Containers for growing dwarf fruit trees may include those made from plastic, metal, clay, ceramic, or wood, as long as there is adequate drainage provided. A general rule of thumb, however, is to start with a container approximately 6 inches (15 cm.) wider than that from which the tree is initially placed in at the nursery. The miniature fruit tree enjoys well-drained sandy soil of moderate fertility, which is suitable for most dwarf fruit trees.

Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:

The first step in the process of growing fruit cocktail trees is to soak the tree overnight in a bucket full of water. Secondly, is to dig a hole 12-18 inches deep and wide in the ground, spread out the roots, and dip the tree into the hole but make sure the grafted joint stays about two inches above the soil. You will see the joint clearly at the base of the tree. Cover with soil and compost, then mulch around the tree to help keep the soil moist. Water well. If you plant your dwarf fruit trees in containers, then, when the portable time comes, load them up, and off you go. The miniature fruit tree should be moved indoors during cold spells and placed away from drafts. When growing dwarf fruit trees, you should repot them one size up about every two years

Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:

Fruit trees benefit from companion plants that attract pollinators, repel pests, improve soil conditions, conserve water, and suppress weeds. Herbs, wildflowers, legumes, alliums are helpful: Goldenrod, Bee balm, Black-eyed Susan, Borage, Poppies, Lupine, Liatris, Marigold, Mint, Nasturtium, Pansy, Phlox, Sunflower, Zinnia, Lavender, and Echinacea. Plant these plants within 25’ of the tree to attract pollinators. These plants do not have to be as close to the tree as plants that repel pests or improve the soil. Create a perennial bed or a stand of wildflowers outside of the canopy so the flowers get plenty of sun. Many plants serve double-duty and attract both bees and butterflies: Milkweed, Violets, Dill, Daisies, Zinnia, Ironweed, Blue Wild Indigo, Butterfly Bush, Cornflower, Lilac, Mallow, Joe Pye weeds, Sage, and Snapdragon. Part of planting a butterfly garden is planting flowers that are food sources for caterpillars. Milkweed is the only food source for Monarch butterfly caterpillars. However, some of these plants may be invasive in your area, so check with a local extension agent before you plant them.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Regular pruning is sometimes necessary for proper care of fruit trees to maintain the shape of your miniature fruit tree. Most pruning is performed during dormancy, just before active growth begins in spring. However, summer pruning may be done to remove undesirable growth and maintain smaller tree size. Some dwarf fruit trees will need support especially during fruiting so tying them to a stake should do the work.

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:

Although typically you should water your indoor citrus tree regularly, be mindful to not overwater your tree. Overwatering is the most common reason for indoor fruit tree failure. Always wait till the soil is completely dry before watering, from every five days to once a week, depending on how dry or humid the tree’s location is. The indoor fruit cocktail tree loves humidity and enjoys a shower of misting every now and then especially when humidity is low.

Weeding Needs & Solutions:

Companion plants can also help suppress weeds. A thick carpet of clover or mustard can smother weed seedlings. A dense stand of wildflowers or herbs can shade out grasses. The key to weed suppression is limiting shade and space. Any plant can be used for weed suppression as long as it is planted close to other plants. Cover crops are the best for weed suppression because they form a dense carpet.

Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:

Feed the tree at least once every four to six weeks during the growing season with a fruit tree fertilizer (make sure to follow the manufacturer’s fertilizing instructions). Add compost around it once in a while, water it with compost tea or add organic supplements to the soil. Especially pay attention to trees that grow in containers.

Pests, Diseases & Solutions:

Covering the tree with a net during the fruiting season will be an easy enough job and ensure that you harvest your crop instead of the birds. No need for a huge net and ladders. Spotting a problem that needs further attention like a worm, for example, is easy enough since you can inspect all the branches easily. Plants that deter pests include: Chives, Onions, Garlic, Leeks, Anise, Basil, Bergamot, Borage, Catnip, Chervil, Cilantro, Dill, Fennel, Ginger, Hyssop, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Lemon Grass, Lemon Verbena, Lovage, Marjoram, Oregano, Parsley, Peppermint, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Spearmint, and Tarragon.

When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:

Around the second year, your tree should start to bear fruit. The tree typically yields crop most part of the year upon maturity, and if properly cared for can yield several pounds of fruit per crop.

How to Harvest:

There’s no ladder hassles with dwarf fruit trees. They reach fruit-bearing maturity very fast. No more waiting five years or more until you get to harvest fruit. All the fruits retain their own characteristics like flavor, appearance, and ripening times.

Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:

This kind of tree would supply lesser counts of the yields in fruit so jams, jellies, juices may not be chosen to preserve. Washing the fruit, cutting for freezing and then packaging is another method. Storage in a refrig. bin, may last a month or so but they need rotating to maintain cool air flow. Some fruits are dryable by sun/air or dehydrator use will prolong until eaten. Plucking and eating fresh right off your is satisfying in growing your own food as well. Grafting: Grafted trees reproduce the fruit, structure, and characteristics of a similar plant in which you are propagating. Trees grafted from vigorous rootstock will grow faster and develop quicker. Most grafting is done in the winter or early spring while both rootstock and scion plants are dormant. Each type of grafting is used to accomplish various needs for grafting trees and plants. For instance, root and stem grafting are techniques preferred for small plants. Veneer grafting is often used for evergreens. Bark grafting is used for larger diameter rootstocks and often requires staking. Crown grafting is a type of grafting used to establish a variety of fruit on a single tree. Whip grafting uses a wood branch or scion. Bud grafting uses a very small bud from the branch. Cleft, saddle, splice and inarching tree grafting are some other types of grafting. First cut a budded branch from the scion tree. A budded branch is a whip like branch that has mature (brownish) but unopened buds on it. Remove any leaves and wrap the budded branch in a damp paper towel. On the rootstock tree, select a healthy and somewhat younger (smaller) branch. About two-thirds of the way up the branch, make a T cut lengthways on the branch, only deep enough to go through the bark. Lift the two corners that the T cut creates so that it creates two flaps. Remove the budded branch from the protective wrap and carefully slice a mature bud from the branch, being careful to leave a strip of the bark around it and the wood below it still attached. Slip the bud under the flaps in the same direction on the rootstock branch as it was cut from the budded branch. Tape or wrap the bud into place making sure you do not cover the bud itself. In a few weeks, cut the wrapping away and wait for the bud to grow. This can take until the next period of active growth. If you do your bud grafting in the summer, you may not see growth until spring. Once the bud starts actively growing, cut off the branch above the bud. One year after the bud has started actively growing, cut all branches but the grafted branch off of the tree. Trees grafted with the right kind of rootstock can create a tree that benefits from the best of both the rootstock and scion trees. Grafted trees can make a healthy and beautiful addition to your yard.

Optimal Preserving Procedures:

Seed Saving:

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Choose your rootstock – Some nurseries will create a ‘custom’ tree just for you. Let’s say you live in an area that has very low rainfall, you can make sure you buy a fruit tree that is grafted onto a rootstock that has high drought tolerance. This will allow you to grow kinds of fruits you didn’t even consider before. If you’re looking for something a little more tropical, you can even grow lemon trees, tangelos, grapefruit, other citrus trees, and even avocado trees together, with varying results.

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