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Fig Tree

Fig Tree

A bush or small tree, from 1 metre (3 feet) to 10 to 12 metres (33 to 39 feet) high, with broad, rough, deciduous leaves that are deeply lobed or sometimes nearly entire. The leaves and stems exude a white latex when broken. The fig has been cultivated for thousands of years.


Fig fruits are borne singly or in pairs above the scars of fallen leaves or in axils of leaves of the present
season. Flowers are staminate (male) or pistillate (female) and enclosed within the inflorescence
structure. Produces soft purple fruit containing many seeds with a leather skin.


Many fig types produce two crops of fruit each year. The early season crop, also known as the breba
crop, fruits on old wood from the previous season and is harvested in May or June. The main fig crop
fruits on newly formed spring growth. Harvest follows in August.


Since figs are self pollinating, you only need one fig tree to get fruit. This makes fig trees perfect for
planting in urban and suburban gardens where space is limited.
Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Fruit trees can be somewhat expensive, so getting a sucker or cutting from a fig growing friend and starting your own fig tree is recommended. Fig trees are propagated from cuttings of dormant wood taken in February in the Northern Hemisphere and planted in nursery rows. These grow in one season to a height of 1 metre (3 feet) and are ready to transplant at the end of the growing season. During the growing season, fig trees will send out suckers that can be removed from the roots and planted to start another tree. You’ll want to plant a fig variety that is known to do well in your climate. Figs do need a certain number of chill hours, although it’s a very low number for all figs, so keep that in mind when you’re looking at varieties.
Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Fig trees are best planted in late winter or early spring – this is especially important if you have long hot summers. Planting early will give the trees time to develop some roots and de-stress from being planted before the summer heat sets in.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
The trees thrive in a wide range of soil types and in most Mediterranean countries receive water only from the natural rainfall.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Planting fig trees from seed lengthens the time it takes to get fruit quite considerably. Prepare a planting medium of equal parts peat, perlite, and fine volcanic rock and place in a flat. Moisten the medium and then mix seed with horticultural sand. Strew the sand-seed mix over the surface of the flat. Place the tray where it is warm and receives sunlight for at least six hours per day. You will see germinating fig seeds in about one to two weeks. Keep them lightly moist and warm. Once the plants have two sets of true leaves and are a few inches (8 cm.) high, it is time to move them to individual pots. Keep them in moderate light for the first couple of months. Most fig trees are part of tropical forests and receive mixed lighting but rarely full, blazing sun. Fig trees can get quite large (20+ feet tall and just as wide) but their growth can be restricted by planting them in a pot or a “fig pit”. If you live where winters are cold (zones 7 and below) planting in a container is necessary. If you have limited space then consider planting them in a container to restrict their growth. A fig pit is basically a concrete box that’s buried in the ground. The most common way to make on is to dig a large hole and line the sides with concrete garden pavers (16″X16″ or larger). In the bottom 8″ or so but rocks or broken garden pots for drainage. A fig pit will restrict the root growth and keep the fig tree to a manageable size for a small yard. Figs trees can grow in part shade but they may not produce fruit or produce very little fruit. For best fruit production they need at least 8 hours of full sun a day. Once the tree is planted, but it down by one-third to one-half. This will force the plant to focus on establishing roots instead of leaves. A few weeks after we planted our first fig tree, a rabbit ate it down to the ground. Of course, don’t cut it back that drastically but don’t be afraid of cutting it back when you plant it.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
For the first year while the fig trees is being established but sure to water it regularly, especially during the hot summer. Once it’s established you’ll only need to water it if it didn’t rain that week. Figs will drop their fruit if they dry out too much.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
While the fig tree likes heat, and is somewhat drought resistant, the roots are really shallow for the tree size. Figs don’t compete well with weeds and will benefit from being well mulched. The type of mulch doesn’t really matter, you can use cardboard, hay, straw,wood chips, etc, the important thing is that it stays mulched to reduce the weeks and help conserve the soil moisture.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Add Compost to fig trees in the early spring. Other than that, don’t use any fertilizer on them. If you want to fertilize them you can water them weekly with a high potash tomato fertilizer while the fruits are developing.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Fig trees can be relatively pest and problem free. If you don’t water them enough in the summer, the leaves will get brown and dry, and fall off the tree.Leaving a very scraggly looking tree. If you’re growing figs indoors or in a greenhouse, you’ll want to keep a look out for spider mites, although they can be on an outside tree too. The leaves will be speckled with pale yellow or bronze spots. Velvet mites and some varieties of lady beetles feed on spider mites. So encouraging beneficial insects and limiting pesticide use (even organic pesticides) is a good first step at controlling spider mites. Figs can also be bothered by mealybugs, scale, or root-feeding nematodes. Your best bet for controlling these is to attract beneficial insects to the garden or releasing them in the greenhouse if that’s where the figs are growing. If the infestation is severe you can use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, just know that you’ll also kill the beneficial insects in doing so. Pests such as the dried fruit beetle can bore into the end of the fruit (the eye)and cause the fruit to sour. If you notice a fig oozing syrupy liquid, the fruit is soured. You might also notice a fermented smell. There’s no real way to control this other than planting fig varieties that have tightly closed eyes, The main pests you’ll probably have with growing figs are birds and squirrels. Some people will net the fig trees to protect them from the birds and squirrels but that can be hard as the tree grows.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
It’s important to let figs get fully ripe before harvesting them as they won’t ripen anymore after being picked. To tell if a fig is ripe, it should be fully colored whatever color it’s supposed to be – purplish, brown, or even green. Once you start noticing the color change, you’ll want to check the figs daily. Feel the fig, it should be soft and not hard.
How to Harvest:
If it’s ripe, it will probably fall off the branch as you’re checking it. If not, gently tug it and it will. If you notice any overripe figs or figs that birds have pecked into, remove them from the tree. The rotting fruit will attract pests.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Figs will only last a few days after being harvested, so make sure you have a plan for using or preserving them.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
If you find yourself with a bunch of figs that need to be dealt with and little time, they can be frozen whole. Just put them in a ziplock bag, label it, and toss it into the freezer. These frozen figs can be used in cooking, canning, or even thawed and dehydrated.
Seed Saving:
The fruit contains many seeds that can be removed, cleaned and dried. To harvest fig seeds, acquire a fresh fig, cut it in half, scoop out the pulp and seeds, and soak them for a day or two. Viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the container. The rest can be discarded. The viable seed has already absorbed moisture and will be ready to crack and germinate quickly.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Fig Varieties: There are four main types of figs – Common Fig, Caprifigs, Smyrna, and San Pedro. The Common Fig is recommended for the backyard orchard because the other three have somewhat complicated pollinating requirements. The Common Fig varieties develop figs parthenocarpically (without pollination). They don’t have true seeds and the figs just seem to appear out of no where on current year wood. There will be no visible flowers, just fruit development. Brown Turkey fig is a common variety in the South, producing two crops of figs – one in May and another in mid-summer. The first crop usually has large fruit while the second crop fruit is smaller. Some say the Texas Everbearing fig is the same as the Brown Turkey fig – some say they aren’t the same. Regardless of who is correct, to the home gardener, the only real difference between these two fig varieties is the name. Celeste or Malta fig is more cold hardy than the Brown Turkey fig. It only produces one crop and needs very little pruning. The fruit is tightly closed which deters the dried fruit beetle. Black Mission figs produce two crops of large, dark purplish figs. While their harvest is large, Black Mission fig trees are not as cold tolerant as some other varieties and are recommended for zone 8 and up Desert King fig is cold hardy to zone 6 and will produce figs without intense summer heat. This makes it a popular fig variety for growing in colder climates. Kadota figs are grown commercially in California and is highly adaptable to other climates. This fig variety is cold hardy to zone 5 if it’s planted in a protected area. However, Kadota fig trees are more sensitive to drought and will produce rubbery fruit in drier climates (West Texas, for instance).

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