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Currants

Currants

A type of berry on small shrubs and are native to North America. Currants are a hardy,
easy-to-grow berry that complement many recipes. They are self-pollinating, so multiple plants
aren’t necessary to produce fruits. They can grow 3-6 feet wide and tall, and can range in color from
red, white, pink, or black. There is even a clove currant ( Ribes odoratum ), which is very fragrant.

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Currants grow best in partial or full sun and need zones 3 to 7 climates and best grown from cuttings.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
If your summer temperatures are in excess of 90°F, plant on the north side of your house or building. Planting on the north side will also protect your currants from a late spring frost, by delaying bloom time. You can also plant in areas that get afternoon shade
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Currants should be planted in the early spring. To prepare a site for planting, add a layer of compost and dig it into the soil. Dig a hole two times as big as the currant’s root ball, and loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole.If the currant bush has shoots, cut them back 6 to 10 inches before planting. Space plants 4 to 5 feet apart in rows set 6 feet apart. Water the newly planted currants with a slow trickle for 60 to 90 minutes. To make a hedge, keep a distance of around 3 feet (1 meter) between plants. The blackcurrant bushes can be planted from mid-November to mid-March but don’t plant them if the soil is water-logged or frozen. The bushes should be spaced about 6ft apart. Dig a hole wide enough to take the roots without cramming them in.The depth of planting should be around 2” deeper than they were in the pot or at the nursery if bare rooted. Put the soil back on to the roots and firm it down with your foot. After planting you can trim every shoot to within two buds above soil level. This will encourage a strong root system to develop.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Wormwood is a great companion plant and can help prevent rust and mildew.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

You’ll be using the loppers for thicker stems, and the secateurs for thinner on pruning needs. Both tools need to be sharp so that they leave behind a nice,clean cut. If they tear through the stems, the wound won’t heal as quickly or as neatly. Unlike blackcurrants, redcurrants grow best on older stems. Once the stem hits 4 years though, it won’t produce many berries, if at all. Older stems are darker and thicker, while younger ones are thinner and paler. You can use these methods to prune white currants and gooseberries as well. Make sure that the last bud is on the outside of the plant. This way, it will develop into an outward facing stem. You are essentially cutting about a third of the stem off. Between winter and summer, the bush will grow a lot, so you will need to prune it again. Since berries like to grow on older stems, focus on pruning off the newer ones instead. Keeping the older stems will allow them to continue to grow berries. Trimming the newer stems will help encourage growth and give you a bushier plant. Try to finish on an outward-facing leaf rather than an inward-facing leaf. You can prune redcurrants the same way you prune white currants however, these methods will not work on blackcurrants which have different needs. Currants should be pruned in the early spring following the first year. For the first year of pruning, prune everything but six to eight shoots. The second year pruning, remove all but four or five healthy shoots that are one-year old and three or four healthy shoots that are two years old. Every year following, prune so that four to five shoots remain that are one year old, and three to four shoots remain that are older. Any branches older than three years old should be removed as well. Suckers are thin, vertical stems shoots that grow from the roots. They are not connected to the base of the bush. They will show up in the summer, after the growing season; this is when you should prune them. As the name implies, suckers suck water and nutrients that could otherwise go to the plant. Removing them means that your plant will get more water and nutrients. If it still looks dead or diseased, trim it further. You may have to remove it entirely in extreme cases. Remember to clean your shears after each cut that you make. This may seem like a lot of extra work, but you don’t want to transfer the infection to healthy wood. Diseases may also spread into compost and contaminate it. Burn the stems, if possible.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Water the shrubs regularly to keep the soil moist from the time they begin growing in spring until after harvest. Plants that don’t get enough water during spring and summer may develop mildew.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Adding mulch can help retain moisture and deter weeds
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Feed currants once a year, usually in the spring. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer. For natural fertilizers, use a seaweed-based one. When mulching around the currants, add some pine needles. This will add natural acidity, which currants need. Remember to apply fertilizer in the spring. A well-rotted manure will do just fine.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Some of the most common pests affecting currants include birds, aphids and big bud mites. Birds will completely destroy the plant’s developing fruit and the only tried and true way to prevent birds from completely ridding your plants of the currants is to cover the plants with a fruit cage. Aphids are small insects that target the plant by sucking the liquid out of the new shoots. This will weaken the bush as a whole. The aphids also create a sticky liquid that covers the leaves. This sticky liquid then attracts other pests and insects. Although it is rare for aphids to kill the currant bush, they can decrease the amount of fruit produced by a substantial amount. Aphids will typically occur on the bushes from late April to May. Treat the aphids at the first sign of infestation by spraying them. A big bud mite is a pest that almost exclusively affects currant plants. When buds begin to form in the late winter, the affected buds will become much larger and fall from the plant. There is no cure, just wait for the harvest season, harvest whatever is produced and then dig up the plant and burn it. Common diseases affecting currants include anthracnose, leaf spot, powdery mildew that can cause stunting and lower fruit production. Redcurrants are especially susceptible to sawfly caterpillars. Keeping the base of the bush free of leaves will help deter these pests.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Currant plants typically aren’t ready to harvest for a year after planting, but 2 year old plants should produce flowers and berries.One currant bush can produce up to 10 pounds of berries per season. Currants are ready to harvest in early to midsummer (late June to mid July).
How to Harvest:
Currants have various colors, so pick them two to three weeks after they have turned the color they are supposed to be, which could be white, black or red. To harvest, pick the entire sprig and pull off the individual berries later.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Dry the berries off after picking them because they mold quickly. Store fresh currants in the fridge for up to four days. If you freeze the whole berry, they can be kept good for several months.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
It’s not recommended to grow red currants from seed. People have spent years improving these fruit to give bigger, tastier berries with heavier crops. Growing from seed will nullify these advantages. Currants are very easy to grow from cuttings if you know someone with some bushes or place a package order.

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Restrictions on whether it is illegal to grow currants vary between states. New research into white pine blister rust and the cultivation of plants immune to the disease has caused many states to rescind or modify their restrictions.

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