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Carob Tree

Carob Tree

This is from a Carobaceae classification and the carob pods are edible. Carob
(Ceratonia Siliqua) is member of the Fabaceae (Legume) family. (technically, locust trees are two
genera of plants, Robinia or Gleditsia and there are more than 22 species of locust trees.


The ripe, dried, and sometimes toasted pod is often ground into carob powder where the powder
and chips can be used as a chocolate alternative in most recipes. Carob flowers attract honey bees
and in areas with healthy bee populations the very distinct aroma, blooming trees will be covered
with thousands of bees. Information states that it is a dioecious tree, which means each tree bears
male or female flowers. This evergreen tree with pinnate leaves of two to six oval pairs can grow to
about 30 ft. tall. The trunk of the carob tree is a work of art by Mother Nature; with large, smooth,
muscular ribs of hard, dark wood, they can grow to be 5 feet wide (1.5 meters). This tree will tend to
grow in spread rather than height, giving it its distinctive protective look. The leaves are oval, dark
green and shiny and 12 to 30 centimeters long. The foliage provides welcome shade in hot
countries. They form a very effective curtain against noise and it’s an excellent fire barrier as its
leaves burn very poorly. The long, flat brown carob pods are 4 to 12 inches (10 to 30.5 cm.) long.
The trees are usually single sexed so you’ll need a male and female to produce pods (may be able
to identify which is which by a 3rd year of growth). One male tree can pollinate about 10 to 20
females. Male and hermaphroditic flowers emit a sweet odor that also attracts butterflies, wasps,
and flies. Female trees produce large, light pink blooms when mature.


Other known names are St. John’s Bread, African Bean tree, Old World Locust Tree and Carob
Bush. As a funny cultural note, the seeds are extremely hard, and they are called “karats” as they
were used as the basic measure to weigh jewels and such.

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Carob grows well anywhere that citrus grows and is grown for its fruit (pod). Sowing seed directly is probably the most common method for how to grow carob trees. Fresh seeds germinate quickly, while dried seeds need to be scarred and then soaked for a period of time until swollen two to three times in size. One plan is to ow in individual tree tubes or recycled milk cartons. The potting mix should be sandy and well-draining. Transplant seedlings when they attained a second set of leaves to reduce damage to tap roots. They can be planted in spring, summer, or autumn (germination for carob trees is only about 25 percent certain). For the home gardener, an established 1-gallon (4 L) carob tree start might more prudently be purchased from a nursery. Keep in mind that conditions in your garden must closely mimic those of the Mediterranean, or grow carob in a greenhouse or in a container, which can be moved into a protected area indoors. Carob trees may be grown in hardy zones 9 to 11 for it can tolerate temperature down to 20 F (-7 C) temperature.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
A warm and drier climate is ideal for carob growing. Tree care dictates establishing the carob tree in an area of the landscape in full sun and well-drained soil. While carob can withstand drought and alkalinity, it does not tolerate acidic soil or overly wet conditions so having soil at pH 6.0 to 8.0 (neutral or alkaline) soil is of the essence. It is well suited to clay soil, but it will adapt to other types, as long as well-drained. Carob tree needs a position sheltered from the wind. If growing in a hot climate, it’ll not mind growing in a position that receives partial sun.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
Transfer the seedlings to the ground at a planting depth of 1-2 inches once they reach 3-4 inches high. (see other notes).
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
Instead of list of companions or antagonists: found good learning information to combine plants suitable to a respective environment to create your own guild. 10 potential centerpieces: apple, mango, macadamia, pears, pecan, mulberry, chestnuts, carob, avocadoes, date palms. 10 potential understory trees: papaya, hazelnut, dwarf apple, guava, coffee, citrus (anything), almonds, nectarine, peach, cacao. 10 forms of nitrogen-fixing foliage: pigeon pea, ice cream bean, Siberian pea, lupin, clover, vetch, groundnut, kudzu, honey locust, carob. 10 dynamic accumulators: borage, comfrey, chickweed, yarrow, nettles, chicory, amaranth, moringa, lamb’s quarters, mulberry. / 10 useful ground covers: sweet potato, red clover, salad vegetables, parsley, peanuts, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, rhubarb, strawberries. 10 pest control plants: mint, peppermint, basil, dill, marigold, sunflower, lemongrass, citronella, lavender, coriander.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

It’s a wild tree, which means you can leave it without pruning. However, pruning carob tree when it is young helps it attaining the desired shape you want. The tree must be pruned regularly so that air and light can penetrate. Young stems can be removed without affecting the production of carob. Also remove the tangled, weak and any damaged or diseased branches from time to time.
Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Water the carob infrequently, or not at all, depending on your climate. Really, the biggest threat to the carob is its dislike for soggy soil and overly wet conditions, which lead to stunted trees and inability to absorb nutrition, causing yellowing and leaf drop. Water the carob infrequently, or not at all, depending on your climate.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
Remove weeds nearby in order to facilitate pods harvesting. So perform one or two times per year depending on your climatic conditions.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
Generally, an established plant will not need to be fertilized, but if problems are plaguing the tree, a dose of fertilizer may be beneficial and, of course, cut back on irrigation. Fertilizer is often unnecessary for carob trees. Side dressing the plant with well rotted manure, twice a year is sufficient
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
Once established, carob trees are strong and resilient and are affected by few diseases or pests, although Scale may be an issue. Severe infestation of these immovable armored insects may cause oddly shaped and yellowing leaves, oozing bark, and general stunting of the carob tree. Prune out any areas that are afflicted with Scale. Some other insects, such as predatory lady beetles or parasitic wasps, may afflict the carob as well and can be treated with horticultural oil if absolutely necessary. There are only a few pests and diseases that disturbs this tough tree. Be aware of squirrels, scale insects, and carob moths. In diseases, it gets killed due to root rot because of overwatering.
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Be patient as carob trees grow slowly at first but begin to bear in the sixth year of planting and may remain productive for 80 to 100 years. After flowering in the fall and winter, carob tree develops the edible seed pods in the spring. You can pick the pods when they are green and soft and about 4-5 inches long. You can consume the green pods raw for the sweet pulp inside. A 25 year old tree can produce 125kg of beans.
How to Harvest:
The pods are normally harvested in autumn. Collection of pods can be picked once they turn a glossy brown color. Knock the fruit down with a long stick and gathering them together with the help of laid out nets. This is a delicate task because the trees are flowering at the same time and care has to be taken not to damage the flowers and next year’s crop.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
The pod is most familiarly known for its use ground into a flour and substituted for cocoa beans. The carob can be eaten fresh. Pick and wash the ripe pods and boil in just enough water to cover, or steam until tender. Cooking softens the pods, making splitting them open fairly easy or cut them lengthwise with a sharp knife. Remove seeds, cut pods into small pieces and place on a cookie sheet. Dry in oven on low heat or in the sun. the pod pieces should be really crisp but not burned. As small amounts at a time, put the dried pieces in a blender or food processor to grind into powder and sift to remove chunks left and repeat process. Some culinary usages are candies, deserts, dressings/marinade, jellies, preserves, sauces/salsa, molasses, juices, and teas. Another plan: Place the carob pods in a warm, dry place for five to 10 days, or until the seeds rattle when the pods are shaken. Snip off the ends of the pods using sharp, sturdy scissors. Pry open the pod and shake out the seeds. Soak the carob seeds in cool water for one to two hours. Gently rub the seeds to remove the sticky, dried-on pulp. Rinse them thoroughly and lay them flat on a sheet of paper towel for a few hours to dry. Rub the edge of each carob seed with a fine rasp to weaken the hull. Rub gently until the brown outer coat thins and the light inner hull is exposed. Do not rub all the way through the hull since the seed can die. Place the carob seeds in a bowl. Heat water on the stovetop until it begins to boil. Remove the water from the heat and pour it over the seeds until they are covered. Soak the seeds for 24 hours. Prepare growing containers while the carob seeds soak. Fill 4-inch peat pots with a mixture of half sterile compost and half perlite. Pour water onto the mixture until it is saturated. Press the surface lightly to extract the excess moisture. Poke a 1 ½ inch deep planting hole in each growing container. Sow one carob seed in each planting hole. Cover the seeds with sterile compost. Drizzle water onto the compost to settle it around the seed. Place the peat pots on a shallow tray near an unshaded, south- facing window that provides eight to 12 hours of natural light daily. Provide supplemental light with a fluorescent lamp, if necessary. Warm the bottom of the peat pots using a propagation mat or heating coil. Maintain a temperature of 70 F at all times during the germination process. Do not lower the temperature since it may cause the seeds to go dormant. Maintain a constant level of light moisture in the growing mixture while the carob seeds germinate. Allow the surface of the growing mixture to dry out slightly before watering again. Watch for germination in 30 to 45 days. Turn the propagation mat off once the seedlings emerge. Decrease watering to prevent a fungal infection called damping-off. Allow the top 1/2 inch of the growing mixture to dry out between waterings. Transplant the carob seedlings once they grow to 3 inches in height. Tear off the bottom of the peat pots and transplant them directly into the garden or into large containers filled with a soil mixture of half loam and half sand.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Propagation methods are seeds and grafting. This food doesn’t contain the theobromine which is associated with migraines by real chocolate in some people. While people have long used the pod husks for medicinal purposes, it also contains a polysaccharide gum, which is odorless, tasteless, and colorless, and is used in many products like adhesive and manufacturing cream cheese or ice cream. (seeds are 35% gum.) Livestock may also be fed carob pods and in times of famine, known as “the last source of [human] food in hard times”. Carob trees are used as windbreaks around orchards. Because of their dense foliage, they are sound buffers against noise from factories, roads, and railways. Carob timber is hard and close-grained, and has been used to make utensils as well as fuel. Carob wood also was traditionally used to make slow-burning charcoal. It turns out that leaves of the carob plant are a rich source of antibacterial plant compounds that can kill one of the microbes often responsible for causing food poisoning.

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