The wild Himalayan blackberry is a tenacious invasive species in some parts of the western United States, but cultivated
varieties tend to be juicer, larger, and more firm than wild berries. If you’re going to plant
some, it makes sense to pick one of these varieties, wherever you live, based on the
structure of the cane, its growth pattern, and whether or not the variety has thorns.
There are hundreds of strains and varieties to choose from, but knowing the basic
categories will help you to make an informed decision.
If you live in a region with very cold winters, it’s best to select an erect variety with thorns.
These stand up to the elements the best and will provide the most solid-possible base for
your climate. If you live in a region with very dry, windy summers, it’s best to plant trailing
varieties, which will stand up to the elements in especially harsh high-desert climates.
Most varieties are able to grow in regions with at least 200-300 hours per season under
45 °F (7 °C), including USDA climate zones 7, 8, and 9 in the United States.
In colder climates, blackberries can flourish and ripen more quickly inside a greenhouse.
Though they’re self-fertile, they’ll still benefit from cross-pollination, meaning that it’s a
good idea to grow two different varieties, if you grow them indoors. They’ll need to be
exposed to at least 200 hours below 40 °F (4 °C), but kept between 60 and 70 F when
inside.
Grow them in most kinds of soil, and in most regions with warm
summers and relatively mild winters. You can learn to plant an appropriate variety, train the
shoots, and care for your blackberry plants. Blackberries will grow in most kinds of fertile soil,
especially slightly acidic soil (between 5.5 and 7 pH) that is rich in humus. Especially sandy or clay-rich
soil is less desirable. Select a planting location with good drainage and maximum
exposure to sunlight to make sure your berries ripen evenly, though some thornless varieties
are prone to “sunburn,” so some shade isn’t a worry in especially sunny regions.
If you live somewhere with very cold winters, it’s best to wait until spring to put your blackberries
in the ground. In areas with more moderate winters, planting them in the fall is appropriate to
give them a chance of setting for the growing season.
Consider the easy planting of upright, erect,
or semi-erect varieties. These varieties of blackberry grow more like hedges, and will
need to be supported with a T-trellis or a post of some sort. These varieties are easier
to control and contain, but require vigorous pruning, shooting stiff new cane straight
from the crown of the plant, rather than trailing along the ground. Many of these
varieties will produce fruit in the first year of planting. Thorny erect varieties are the
hardiest in cold climates. (Illini, Kiowa, Shawnee, Apache, Triple Crown, and Natchez are
all popular varieties of erect and semi-erect blackberry).
Trailing, upright, and hybrid varieties are all now available in thorny and thornless
strains, meaning that you can make your harvest a whole lot easier on your fingers.
Thornless varieties do tend to be somewhat more sensitive to colder weather, making
the thorny varieties a much hardier choice for most climates.
Note that thornless varieties are more vulnerable to birds and other pests.
When you’ve selected your plot, dig into the earth at least a foot and till the soil of your
plot thoroughly to aerate. Mix in a 2 inch (5.1 cm) layer of manure and a 2 inch (5.1 cm)
layer of organic soil conditioner to fertilize.
It’s best to start small because blackberries can really take over in the proper climate (long,
dry summers), it’s easy to overwhelm yourself with berries accidentally. If you want to test
out how blackberries will do in your area, start with a single erect variety, placed somewhere with room
to expand. Plant more rows if you don’t get the kind of production you’re interested in after starting with
one.
If planting several rows, space the rows between 6 and 10 feet apart. Erect plants can be
closer together than trailing varieties. You can plant your trellis poles before you put in
your plants, or after. Trellising is discussed in the following section.
Set plant (cane) into the ground about 6-8 inches (15.2-20.3 cm) and space between 3 to 6 feet apart
from one another. Upright or erect plants can be closer than trailing varieties, which should be more
like 6 or 7 feet (1.8 or 2.1 m) apart from one another. Add as much as a
gallon of water upon planting the canes.
Blackberry plants purchased from greenhouses will typically have 6 or 8 inches (15.2 or
20.3 cm) of dormant growth sticking out of the top of a ball of soil protecting the root system. They won’t
always look like the prettiest plant, but will start shooting cane vigorously in the spring. Buy your
blackberry starts from a greenhouse in your area a few days before you want to put them in the
ground.
For erect plants, plant posts about 6 feet (1.8 m) tall adjacent to each erect plant, with a
cross-bar about 3 feet (0.9 m) long, placed about 3 or 4 feet (0.9 or 1.2 m) high on the
post. As the canes grow up, you can train the primocane suckers (new growth) around
the post to help support the weight of the canes, leaves, and berries.
Erect and semi-erect blackberry varieties will mostly grow straight up, sometimes quite
high. To promote growth, it’s important to use a post-system of trellising, as you would
roses, or another snaking vine. You want to give the blackberry something to climb on.
Typically, you won’t need to train or trellis erect plants in the first year. Blackberry posts
don’t need to be elaborate. Plant along existing fences, or use old fence posts to support
blackberry. Ideally, posts will be about wrist-thick, so 2 x 2 boards would work fine.
When planting trailing varieties, it’s important to give them a horizontal avenue on
which to cling. Plant 4–6 foot (1.2–1.8 m) high posts every 5 or 6 feet (1.5 or 1.8 m)
along the row, then run two rows of fence wire between the posts, one at the top of the
post and one about a foot off the ground.
It’s also possible to use twine, string, or wood to connect each post to the next. Use
whatever materials you have on hand to let the blackberries climb on. Ideally, trailing
blackberries will spread in two rows, one higher and one lower, along each wire. With
proper pruning, you can train new hardy growth along the trellis and cut back lessvigorous shoots. Keeping the plants trimmed will promote fruit growth and overall plant
health, allowing water and sunlight to reach the most healthy cane.
Don’t plant blackberries near nightshade or
members of the nightshade family, including tomato, potato, and pepper. Verticillium wilt, a
common blackberry blight, can be transmitted through the soil. Don’t plant blackberries in
the same vicinity of other brambles, or near any wild-growing blackberry. Start your
blackberries on a fresh site to avoid common diseases that can be transmitted.