There are hundreds of apple tree varieties available,
each of which does best in a certain growing zone. Planting a tree that is known to thrive in your
growing zone will give you the best chance of growing a successful, fruit-bearing tree. The USDA
website provides a map illustrating where different growing zones begin and end.
This is especially important for apple trees because apple varieties each need a number of “chill
hours” in order to begin producing fruit. Chill time is when the temperature is between 32 and 45
degrees F. Some varieties do best in the north, where the winters are long and cold, and others need
fewer chill hours and do fine in southern growing zones. In addition to knowing your growing zone,
and how many chill hours it typically provides, you may need account for other climate factors.
Humidity levels, annual rainfall, elevation, and other factors such as your local microclimate could
influence how well apple trees grow.
For growing zones 3 and 4, try Honeycrisp, Sweet Sixteen or Macoun. For zones 5 to 9, try Pink Lady,
Akane or Ashmead’s Kernel. For 10 or hotter, try Granny Smith or Cinnamon Spice.
Cross pollination is usually necessary in order for the trees to produce fruit. Many apple trees will not
pollinate themselves or other trees of the same variety, so you may need to plant two different apple
varieties in the same area to ensure they get pollinated.
Consult with a local horticulturist or nursery to find out which varieties will pollinate in your area.
Golden Delicious, Red Delicious, Grimes Golden and Winter Banana are often good choices, since
they are known to pollinate.
You can narrow down your list according to personal preferences. Consider taste testing a few
different varieties so you can make sure the time and effort you’ll put into growing an apple tree will
result in fruit you enjoy eating.
You may also want to consider getting a disease-resistant variety, even if it doesn’t produce your
very favorite type of apple. Apple trees are prone to disease, and it would be a shame for yours to
die within two or three years of planting.
Disease-resistant trees allow you to grow organic fruit, since you won’t have to use as many
chemicals to keep them from getting sick. Some treatment will still be necessary, but it will be less
than that needed for non-resistant trees.
Most apple trees are grown from dormant, grafted nursery trees with developed root systems.
These trees consist of a rootstock, the foundation of the tree, and a scion, the top part of the tree
that bears the fruit. The rootstock and scion are grafted together to create trees that grow reliably
and produce a certain type of fruit. Plan to plant your tree as soon as possible after purchasing it. If
the roots are dry, soak them for 24 hours before planting.
When ordering a tree, you can choose a seedling rootstock, which will produce a full-sized tree that
grows up to thirty feet; or a dwarfing rootstock, which produces a smaller tree more suitable for a
backyard harvest. Full-sized trees bear more fruit, but they take several extra years before they start
bearing. Trees can be ordered from a catalog or purchased at a local nursery. While some people like
to try their hand at planting apple trees from seed, buying a bare-root tree produces much more
reliable results. If you plant a seed, it won’t necessarily produce an apple like the one it came from.
Since apple trees are grafted, the seed is basically a wild card that could produce a tree with inedible
fruit.
A dormant bare root tree is best planted in the spring, after the soil has thawed enough to dig a deep
hole. This is especially important in colder regions. The trees’ roots need a chance to take hold before
the next winter, or they’ll suffer from the frost. If you live in a place with mild winters,you can plant
apple trees in the fall without worrying that they’ll die from the frost before they geta chance to set.
Amend the soil for pH before planting and adjust the soil to account for
nutrient deficiencies. Again, conduct research to find out how rich or poor the soil should be for the
variety you’re planting. Amend the soil to a depth of 18 inches (45 cm) below the planting hole, so
that the tree’s roots grow into healthy soil.
Apple trees need full sun, so choose a spot that gets at least six hours a day. They like soil that is
moist, but not sopping wet. If your soil is clay-heavy or doesn’t drain quickly, amend it by working in
straw, compost, or another organic material to create better drainage. Using an organic material will
also provide nutrients to the tree as it decomposes over time.
If you are planting seedlings, which will grow into
full-sized trees about thirty feet tall, they should be planted fifteen to eighteen feet apart. If you’re
planting dwarfing rootstock, plant them four to eight feet apart.
Dwarfing trees tend to fall over under the weight of a heavy flush of apples, so it’s a good idea to
plant them near something sturdy, like a fence. If no fence is available, you can setup a trellis to
support them. If your property is hilly or sloped, plant the trees in higher areas. During the winter,
cold air settles in the lower areas, and these “frost pockets” can be harmful to the trees.
If temperatures drop below 29 °F (−2 °C) while the tree is flowering, your apple tree might not
produce fruit.
Use a spade to remove all grass, weeds and stones in a circle about four feet in diameter. Dig a
hole twice the diameter of the root system. It should be just deep enough so that the tips of the roots
graze the bottom of the hole, and the graft union(where the scion is joined to the rootstock) is two
inches above the soil line.
Put some of the loose soil back in the hole so it will surround the roots. Loosen the soil on the
bottom and sides of the hole so it will be easy for the roots to penetrate as they grow.
Position it in the center of the hole. Spread out the roots so they aren’t cramped or curled in the
hole. Replace soil around the roots to fill in the hole. After you’ve replaced a few inches of soil, use
your fists to tamp down the soil around the roots, so no air pockets will form around the roots. Keep
going until the hole is completely filled in.
As you work, check the tree to make sure the trunk is standing upright at a ninety-degree angle to
the ground. If you plant the tree crooked, it will grow crooked. Don’t add fertilizer to the hole. The
soil should have already been amended so that it’s nutritious enough for the tree to grow well.
Fertilizer could burn the roots. Make sure the graft union is not buried; it must be above the soil.
Water the tree well. This removes air pockets and helps the roots and soil make firm contact.
If your apple tree isn’t pollinated very well, it might not produce any fruit. Experts recommend crosspollinating apples and pears together. You could also plant crab apples and ornamental Bradford pears near your apples, as well.
Plants that deter pests and enrich the soil when
cut back and left as mulch for apple trees: comfrey, nasturtium, chamomile, coriander, dill,fennel,
basil, lemongrass, mint, artemisia, yarrow, daffodil, tansy, marigold, and hyssop. It is advised to not
have cedar trees closer than 4 miles.