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Citrus Tree

Citrus Tree

Citrus is a genus of flowering trees and shrubs in the rue family, Rutaceae. important
crops such as oranges, lemons, grapefruits, pomelos, and limes are in this assortment. If you live
somewhere that’s a bit colder than a strictly Mediterranean climate,look into cultivars bred for cold
resistance. If you can taste fruit grown on a tree in your area, perhaps from a neighbor for not all
oranges are alike.

Introduction
Mr. John Doe

Head Director

Description

Try dwarf citrus trees if you are short on space. You can even grow them in large pots, and they open up the possibility of covering the entire tree in a shelter during winter months or even bringing the tree indoors. Even though they are small, dwarf citrus trees can produce a very reasonable harvest. On the other end of the spectrum, a couple of large lemon trees can form a good-sized hedgerow. It all depends on just how much citrus you want. For a dwarf citrus tree, select a large pot. Try for two feet in diameter or a half-barrel, at least. If you are planting a dwarf citrus in a pot, use straight potting soil and fill it in to a similar level. Place the pot up on blocks and be sure there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Don’t let the pot sit directly in a saucer or puddle of water.
Optimal Time/Temperature for Germination:
Citrus trees are relatively easy to grow, provided that you have a warm enough climate. Even if your conditions are not ideal, there may still be a citrus tree for you. Read on about how to grow an assortment of citrus. (a tree grown from an orange seed can take anywhere from seven to 15 years to bear fruit.) If you’re looking for a tree that will produce fruit faster, you’re better off getting a grafted tree from a nursery. Orange seeds can be sown directly into soil, but only if the soil temperature is warm enough. The temperature needs to be between 70 and 75 F (21 and 24 C) for the seeds to germinate. Also, if the nighttime temperatures are still getting too cold, the seeds may freeze and die. If you live in a warm climate, you can safely sow the seeds directly in late spring or summer. If seed sprouting indoors look for plump, whole, healthy seeds that don’t have any spots, marks, dents, breaks, discoloration, or other blemishes or imperfections. Transfer the seeds to a bowl and fill it with clean water. Use a clean tea cloth to wipe the seeds and remove all traces of flesh and juice. Cleaning the seeds is also important for removing fungus and mold spores, and to prevent fruit flies. You can clean and germinate all the seeds in the orange, and then pick the biggest and healthiest sprouts to plant. Fill a small bowl with clean room temperature water. Transfer the seeds to the water and let them soak for 24 hours. Many seeds have a better chance of sprouting if they’re soaked first, because soaking softens the seed coating and kickstarts the germination. When the seeds have soaked for 24 hours, drain the water and place the seeds on a clean towel. Don’t soak the seeds for longer than this, as they may become waterlogged and not sprout. Get a 4-inch (10-cm) planting pot with drainage holes in the bottom or find a good spot in your yard to plant the seed. If planting directly into the ground, then dig a small hole and place the seed in the ground. If planting in a pot, fill the bottom with a thin layer of pebbles to increase drainage, and fill the pot the rest of the way with potting soil. Make a half-inch (1.3 cm) hole in the center of the soil with your finger. Place the seed into thehole and cover it with soil. After transplanting the seed to a pot, continue providing it with lots of direct sunlight everyday. Newly sprouted seedlings will benefit from a mild fertilizer, such as compost tea. Add enough of the compost tea to moisten the soil. Repeat every two weeks. Water thesoil thoroughly once a week, or if the soil starts to become dry. If the soil dries out too often, the orange tree will not survive. If keeping in pots, you will need to increase pot sizing as development grows larger.
Optimal Soil Conditions:
A warm, sunny, southern or western exposure is best. Shelter is a big help, too, if cold is a concern. Choose or create someplace with well-drained soil, and avoid putting a citrus tree directly into a lawn. A nearby reflective wall, fence, or even patio can provide both shelter and a bit of extra warmth. Mix in a handful of peat moss and a handful of sand to provide the tree with well-draining and slightly acidic soil. Orange trees like a pH between 6 and 7.0. Mix in some citrus fertilizer with the soil, if you like. Orange trees will typically not survive if they’re exposed to temperatures below 25 F (-4 C), so they can’t be permanently transplanted outside in cooler areas. Fully grown orange trees are large, so if you live in a cooler climate, keep the tree in a solarium or greenhouse if possible.
Seed Planting Depth, Spacing and Procedure:
As a practical matter, make sure you know where you want to place the tree, then dig a hole that is about three feet (1 meter) in diameter and as deep as a container. Do not bury the root crown, the transition from trunk to roots, as this will cause problems down the road. Plant the tree slightly higher than the surrounding soil to allow for some settling, most container grown nursery stock has high organic matter content that will decompose causing the plant to settle in the planting hole dropping the root crown below grade if not planted slightly high. If you have any concerns about drainage, such as in heavy clay soil, fill the hole with water and see how long it takes to drain out. If you have drainage problems (that is, if the water is not gone by the next morning), dig the hole even deeper and plant the tree up higher. Depending on the quality of what you took out of the hole, you might try a half-and-half mixture of compost and the now-loosened soil. Create a mound of soil in the middle of the hole that supports the root ball with the crown (the base of the tree trunk where the roots begin) slightly above it. Remove the tree from its pot or burlap around the roots. Place the tree on the mound of soil. Add or remove soil underneath to adjust the height so that the crown is level with the soil or even slightly above it.
Best Companion Plants and Plants that Hinder:
The best companion for lemon trees will attract pollinators and predatory insects. Bees and butterflies help pollinate the tree, resulting in larger harvests. Beetles, flies, and wasps attack common citrus pests. wildflowers, nasturtium, lavender, and rosemary are good companion plants. Grow comfrey or alyssum near orange trees as easy mulch to keep weeds away. Garlic and chives are great orange tree companions as they repel aphids and caterpillars.

Growing Instructions

Crop Maintenance

Moisture Requirements & Solutions:
Water at least weekly until established (unless you get sufficient rain. Even water mature citrus trees regularly. Citrus trees have relatively shallow, broad root systems. Once established, the trees may tolerate some drought, but they won’t produce fruit that’s as good.
Weeding Needs & Solutions:
They don’t require heavy or regular pruning. Remove any “suckers”, or shoots growing from the rootstock. Citrus trees are grafted, meaning that a tree with desirable fruit is cut and attached to a sturdier rootstock. You don’t want the rootstock taking over. Moderately thin the foliage if it grows excessively dense, to promote air circulation and availability of light. Generally, train citrus trees as shrubs or hedges. If you’d like to remove a few lower branches to give it more of a tree shape, go ahead, but don’t overdo it.
Feeding Needs/Optimal Natural Fertilizers:
: Stay away from organic mulch (wood chips, straw, grass clippings, chopped leaves, and compost) as it increases the likelihood of foot rot disease. A safe bet is that the roots are at least as wide as the branches, so make the mulch area at least this large. You can even add a rim of mulch around the circumference of the circle to aid in watering. Do not mulch right up to the base of the trunk. Leave a little margin so that the crown has breathing room and doesn’t stay wet when you water. Organic, seaweed-based fertilizers work very well and promote leaf/ fruit/ flower growth. You can find various citrus fertilizers on the market, as well. It would be ideal to use a more nitrogen-rich fertilizer in spring/summer, when trees’ leaves and stems are actively growing. During late summer/autumn, you can use a more balanced fertilizer and then a more phosphorus/potassium based fertilizer when the tree’s energy is directed toward its fruits rather than its leaves.
Pests, Diseases & Solutions:
WLD (Winter Leaf Drop), CVC (citrus variegated clorosis), Blackspot, Scab, Psorosis, Melanose, Anthracnose on dead citrus wood, Phytophthora, and Pseudocercospora are some of the fungal and bacterial complications but most seem to be resolvable with liquid copper, zinc sulfate, or hydrated lime. To prevent citrus tree Root Rot, remove all decaying material such as leaves,dead weeds, and fallen fruit from the ground surrounding the tree base, and prune lower limbs to at least two feet above the ground. The example of Citrus Canker causes necrotic dieback, tree decline, premature fruit drop, and blemished fruit. There are a variety of sprays designed to protect citrus trees from Canker infection, such as Liquid Copper Fungicide as a preventative treatment. However, already infected trees should be removed and destroyed to prevent further contamination from the contagious Citrus Canker disease. Homemade fruit tree sprays are an effective way to keep the bugs and diseases away by using common household ingredients such as vegetable oils, boric acid, soap, water, and spices, you can create an organic pesticide to eliminate many unwanted pests. Vinegar is a fantastic way to get rid of an ant problem. A water and vinegar solution can be sprayed anywhere that ants are present. Neem oil (70%) is used to manage powdery mildew but is less effective on black spot and other leaf spot diseases. Many insecticides that use combinations of different plant oils, plant extracts, and fish oils. (common oils used in these products are garlic, canola, sesame, and soybean).
When to Harvest/Number of days to maturity:
Oranges, lemons, and grapefruit should all be completely free of green coloring. They will not ripen off the tree. Limes are generally picked green, so go by size and season. When given proper care, they bear fruit for 50 years or more. It’s not uncommon for healthy trees to live for more than a century. Trees planted in the ground produce fruit longer than container-grown orange trees.
How to Harvest:
Look out for thorns. Some citrus trees grow long, sharp thorns, and getting citrus juice in the cuts from these thorns is absolutely painful. Look closely, and wear gloves or use a long-handled fruit picker. Unlike other fruits, citrus fruits do not continue to ripen once they have been picked. So it is important that they be ripe right off of the tree. A bit of green on the skin of oranges and lemons is perfectly fine. These tend to keep the longest and will be perfect for storing.
Optimal Storage temperature and conditions:
Properly storing citrus fruit can ensure that you retain the nutritional value, flavor and juiciness of this unique fruit. Store them in your refrigerator’s vegetable bin and be sure to rotate the fruit regularly to maintain airflow. Oranges stored in a refrigerator should keep for approximately one month. Do not cover the bowl with plastic wrap or foil. Airflow is important to keeping oranges and grapefruit fresh. However, lemons need to be sealed in a baggie in the refrigerator which can preserve up to four weeks and will also retain their juiciness during that time. They can be cut into quarters, with all membranes and seeds removed. Place them into plastic bags and freeze. Use them within three months as the longer they are stored, the more bitter they become. If you regularly use them for water, freeze sliced lemons by laying them out on a cookie sheet and setting them in the freezer for a few hours. Once they are solid, place them into a storage baggies. Limes generally have a long shelf-life. Unlike oranges or lemons, fresh limes can last up to 2-3 weeks at room temperature. Storing limes at room temperature also allows them to yield more juice. You can freeze them like lemons as well. Cut open fruit and squeeze juice into ice cube trays to make popsicles or add to meals for additional flavoring. Use frozen lime juice to preserve guacamole or any other dishes with avocado to keep it from spoiling. Frozen orange juice popsicles are a great way for kids to get their much-needed serving of vitamin C.
Optimal Preserving Procedures:
Seed Saving:
Using oranges as the example, slice in half to reveal the seeds. Use a spoon or knife to pick out the seeds. The tree that grows will likely produce similar fruit, so make sure you choose the seeds of an orange variety you like. Some orange varieties,such as navels and clementines, are seedless, and you won’t be able to propagate orange trees this way. The cost of seeds has increased, while the number of seeds in pre-packaged envelopes has decreased. Collecting and storing seeds from your own garden ensures that you always have backups if any of your favorite plants die. Collecting and storing your own seeds allows you to control their quality. Many pre-packaged seeds aren’t harvested at the most optimal time and are also not necessarily stored in the proper way. A good seed collecting kit will have a small pair of scissors or pocketknife to nip the plants;paper envelopes, paper bags, or small plastic bags in which to put the dried seeds; and a pen or marker to label the seeds as you gather them. You can also use small tins. Just as when you collect seeds, it’s important keep each different seed separate as you dry them for storage. It’s very important to have good air circulation when drying seeds so that you can store them. Spreading out the seeds on sheets of paper or paper plates for a few days is the best way to dry. Once you’ve transferred the seeds to envelopes or containers, you can create a seed bank in a jar or another container. This will help you keep your seeds orderly and in one place so that you can use them whenever you like. All seeds have a limited shelf-life that ranges from a few months to a few years. Seeds from annual, perennial and biannual plants, as well as herbs and vegetables are excellent for storage. Less optimal are seeds from fruiting trees, shrubs, houseplants and tropical plants. You can extend the life of your seeds by keeping them in a cool and dry place. You may also want to check your seeds regularly to make sure they haven’t molded or germinated in their packages. (fyi: regulations are often put in place to make sure that no more than 10% of wild seed harvesting are collected in any year so wild species aren’t endangered).

Harvest and Storage

Notes

Navel oranges and Valencia oranges are both very sweet and make great orange juice. Florida oranges, Cara Cara, and blood oranges are try-able too. Limes that are mostly brown are considered moldy and should not be eaten. In citrus producing areas and other parts of the US, if there is an “epidemic” of any contagious diseases or pests, the Dept. of Agriculture may come on a person’s property, rip out the trees, and haul them away to be burned. That is why it’s important to ensure the health of a tree before buying it. Don’t plant your tree near septic tank lines, or the roots may eventually cause issues with clogging.

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